I slept in a bit this morning and got up to make myself a gigantic frozen yogurt and pineapple drink. As I was congratulating myself on the flavor of the improvised morning cocktail, the yakitori master called me up and said, “let’s go”.
I jumped in the shower, and headed out towards the temple. People were starting to gather and things were just getting started. The first portable shrine (mikoshi) was already through the gate, and the master and his posse were helping carry it. As soon as they saw me they gave me an orange happi to wear, and I shouldered some of the burden.
Carrying a mikoshi is hard work. Each one weighs around 5 tons. My approach this year was to just support the weight across my back as best I could, and get the hell out of the way if it started to fall. I quickly learned the chants and knew when we would be lifting the mikoshi up on our outstretched arms, and when we would be putting it down. We actually covered a lot of ground when it was up that high, but eventually we’d lose control and then everyone would just kind of control the fall. Five tons comes down pretty hard and pretty fast.
Some of the other mikoshi teams had special moves where they would lift the mikoshi, and then drop it on purpose, only to lift it right back up as soon as it touched the ground. Our group didn’t want to drop it, because we didn’t want to pick it up again.
Inside the mikoshi there is a big taiko drum with a little kid banging away at it. Around the little kid are four other kids who watch and chant. They also trade off on the drums. When the mikoshi goes flying, they have little ropes to hold on for dear life.
I get stared at a lot, but when I’m the only foreigner at an event like this, and I’m actually carrying a shrine, it’s really an eyeful. I’m not sure how they choose who carries the shrines, but the master had vouched for me and earned me a place (of honor?) carrying. Some of the looks I got were interesting – some people were pleasantly surprised, and some looked like maybe they didn’t think much of having a foreigner helping. I just lifted and did my best, and we made it all the way around the temple.
After the first lap they still had seven other mikoshi to bring in, so we relaxed for a while and watched the other guys sweat. Some of our gang took off their robes and helped other teams. As long as they weren’t wearing our colors while carrying some other mikoshi, everything was fine.
Like I said, as I walked around I got a lot of attention. I stuck close to the master’s part time worker, and we had some snacks and scouted the crowd. He explained some of the stranger foods to me, and later when Jane and Jennifer came by, I introduced them.
Jane and Jennifer only stayed for a little while, and they were the last foreigners I saw that day. Usually you see at least somebody walk through, but nope, just me. I found that people were kind of following me around. Later I noticed that people would walk up to me, and then look around, find somebody, and leave. I realized later that I was kind of a human landmark of sorts – they’d tell their friends and family to meet them near the foreigner. No kidding!
The master’s wife and baby made an appearance, so we spent lots of time catching up. She’s looking good and healthy, and his baby was all smiles. Some of the other yakitori friends came up and I found myself holding babies a lot. I held a one month old baby for a while, and that was amazing. She took one look at me and then cried and cried.
Just before lunch we took the mikoshi for another sweaty spin around the temple, and then they took out the golden mikoshi from inside the temple and did some ceremonial carrying of that one. People would rotate into the group carrying it, representatives from the other groups mainly. Lots of white-robed priests officiated that one, and I was definitely not getting near the holy gold shrine. It kind of reminded me of the Ark from the Raiders of the Lost Ark.
We took a break for a late lunch/early dinner, and I had a couple of beers. The master bought me some dinner, so I bought him some beers. We had a nice little arrangement going. Afterwards we went across the street to loiter on a street corner and wait for the last mikoshi carry – the one where we carry it outside the temple grounds.
Finally we decided that it was about time to go back in, and after some more yakisoba we joined the group carrying our mikoshi and took it to the front of the temple. One by one the mikoshi left, and to occupy our time as we waited in line we picked ours up and bounced it around. All through the day we had been accidentally dropping the mikoshi and everyone would scatter out of the way. It became second nature to be aware and move, because five tons would squish a human body pretty quick. Unfortunately, me and another guy were slightly injured.
We were on the front corner of the mikoshi, and as it dropped it teetered over on it’s side. I felt it coming down on me and kind of ducked out and away, but the guy next to me wasn’t as fast and kind of slowed my escape. The front edge of the mikoshi frame caught the top on my left knee, and the side of his leg. We both were knocked down and we both got right back up. I wasn’t bleeding, just a little scuffed up, and the other guy was fine. We kept right on throwing around the mikoshi, and about thirty minutes later we finished for the night.
I said my goodbyes to everyone and walked home. When I got home I relaxed on the couch and when I looked down at my knee I realized there was a big shiny lump forming there.
I broke out the frozen vegetables and iced it down, took four aspirin, and cleaned up the scratches. Then I sat back on my bed and rested my aching shoulders. What a day – the bruises on my back look like hieroglypics and I’m not sure if I’ll be able to walk tomorrow. No matter what I’ll have a more colorful body tomorrow morning.