I’m up fairly early this morning – having slept pretty well considering I still have ten pounds of undigested food in my stomach. Since the hotel turned out to be pretty nice, and since I don’t want to waste time looking for another place to stay tonight, I told the clerk to sign me up for one more night. Then, in keeping with my plan I hit the trail, walking west of the hotel for several blocks until I reached the biggest of several royal palaces in Seoul. The Gyeonbokgung palace is pretty amazing from the front – it is lined up perfectly under a mountain and features an enormous courtyard and gateway.
I was there an hour early, thanks to my having not properly set my alarm. I ran around taking pictures without having to worry about tourists goofing them up, and looked around the area.
An important lesson was learned – don’t try to take pictures of people with guns. I was walking by some sort of government building, and a guy was out front in full military dress. He had the chin strap under the nose, and reminded me a lot of the royal guards in England. As soon as my camera came out for a picture, he was moving towards me shaking his head and saying some loudly in Korean. I got the message and moved on before they could lock me in prison for fifty years.
Across from the palace is the “Central Government Center”, which was crawling with police. South Korea had been in the news recently because of a presidential power struggle, and there was just a bit of turmoil. I got to thinking that if anything bad was going to happen, I was at ground zero, and decided to skip my planned trip by the government area to see the U.S. embassy.
Instead I spent a little more time exploring the palace, and it’s extensive grounds. I took plenty of pictures, and used my extra time to walk through the National Folk Museum, which was a bit of a bust. There were way too many cheesy dioramas in there, although the paintings and artwork were fairly interesting.
I went underground to ride the Seoul subway system, which was fairly easy to use. Not nearly as easy as the Japanese train system, but Seoul seems like a town a little more dependent on automobiles for transportation.
My next stop was one recommended by one of my teachers, my guidebook, and the Korean tourism website. Boy, did it suck. The Korean folk village is a traditional Korean village located in the heart of downtown that is populated by people that actually live there, dress in traditional costumes, and agree to let tourists disturb them endlessly with pictures. When I got there it was desolated – apparently traditionally Koreans like to sleep in. I took some pictures of the houses and the surrounding area, and hiked to the top of a fairly good sized hill to get a good view of the city. It wasn’t a complete waste, but I was disappointed.
Back on the subway, and this time I made a few transfers to get to the Itaewon Special Tourist Zone (that’s the name, really!). The area is famous for cheesy souvenirs, and cheap black market goodies. The street is lined on both sides with hundreds of shops, both legitimate and dicey. The legit shops have the same prices as any other store in the world – I went inside the North Face store and was not impressed. I went a few blocks down and saw North Face jackets selling for $25, about $200 off the regular price. I looked at some backpacks at one store – I hadn’t really planned on getting a backpack but the prices were good enough to take a look. I finally chickened out – backpacks are something you want to shop carefully for – so much of the comfort is individual to your body. The poor guy didn’t want to let me leave. He even whispered that he would make me a “special deal” – all the same tactics you get in Tiajuana or even Berkeley.
As I walked up and down the area enjoying window shopping I noticed that the hawkers seemed to leave me alone, but were pulling aside other foreigners walking around. I was congratulating myself for blending in so nicely when a very nice old lady pulled me aside and asked for 2000 won. I said that I couldn’t help her, but I did complement her on her English. She just smiled and moved on.
I finished exploring the neighborhood – picking up a couple of interesting things to bring home. I walked around a bigger loop to explore the area beyond the tourist shops and found a good looking restaurant to eat lunch. Inside I ordered bibimba (a vegetarian dish) that came with lots of extra dishes, including the ubiquitous kimchee. Again I ate big, taking the opportunity to stuff my face. This time I knew what kind of beer to order, so I was making a little progress. Lunch was $9, another bargain.
After lunch I went back to the subway and waited patiently for the next train. If you’ve ever been deep underground waiting for a subway maybe you know the sensation when you hear the train coming, and you feel the wind start to blow through the station – it still gives me a rush. The train roars out of the darkness and your hair is blowing everywhere and you have that sense of anticipation – very exciting. One thing I like about the Seoul subway is that some cars have televisions on board. That’s an entertainment option that the Japanese haven’t figured out yet.
I went back to my hotel to drop off my gear, and took a 30 minute nap. Then I got back out there – this time doing a gigantic figure 8 around the city hall and to see another palace. The Deoksugung palace was much less dramatic than Gyeonbokgung, but still pretty nice to look at. On the bottom end of my figure 8 I walked through an enormous underground shopping arcade. Along the way I stopped in at the Lotte Department Store, definitely the nicest department store I’ve ever been in. I believe that Lotte is a Japanese company, and it was laid out similarly to many of the Japanese stores I’ve been to in Kobe and Osaka. The entire sixth floor was dedicated to golf wear, which may indicate that golf is a big deal in Seoul. In the basement I found a large gourmet food area, with an amazing array of spicy meat for sale. Everything here was reasonably priced with the exception of the wine – I found two Benziger reds, each for about $48 a bottle.
I went back out of the street, and gawked with all the locals at plumes of smoke coming from a fire a few blocks away. My strategy for crossing the busy streets of Seoul almost backfired when I was crossing a heavy construction zone. They were tearing up one of the streets, so they had pulled up all the pedestrian signals. I decided the safest bet was to just follow other people across, but the guy I decided to follow walked right in front of a bus and got pushed out of the way by a construction worker. I backed up quickly and rethought my strategy.
The streets of Seoul had this weird “edge-of-chaos” feel to them, part of which is because so much of it is new to me, and partly because there is just so much going on. From the constant honking and terrible drivers to the motorcycles and old men pushing huge carts through crowds of people, there are many hazards to the uninitiated. I was in one of the busiest parts of town during construction in rush hour, and it almost was too much to take. I made my way to the quieter part of town that I was used to, and felt a lot more comfortable.
Back at the hotel I pressed the clerks for a restaurant recommendation. They were programmed to recommend their own restaurant, but I insisted on some spicy Korean BBQ ribs, and once I pointed at my own ribs, they both slapped their foreheads and the bellhop led me across the street to a place that specialized in ribs.
The bellhop took my order, since he knew a bit of English, and made sure I was all set before he went back to work. The waitress fired up a big stove on my table, and then came over with dishes and dishes of food. I felt like maybe I had ordered something for four people. The final total was 10 plates of food, including the beef ribs which she cooked on my hot stove. I took each piece of meat, laid it on a big leaf of lettuce, put a piece of roasted garlic and some onions inside, and then put some superhot Korean sauce over the top and chomped in. There were so many other dishes that I can’t describe them all – I tried everything and the lady that was cooking my meal watched me with a look that was somewhere between approval and concern.
Finally, with my lips burning and stomach once again filled to capacity I paid the bill ($17) and went back up to my room. I took a nice long soak in my deep tub to rest up my feet, and then hit the hay.