Yesterday I went to Kyoto to the first time. Mr. Komuri wanted to show me around, since Kyoto is one of his favorite places to visit. Mr. Hayashi and Miss Kageyama came along for the ride. We met up in the train station in Akashi, and then took an hour train ride into Kyoto.
The Kyoto train station was the biggest train station I had ever been in – it was huge! There were so many different train lines going through, and so many people running from train to train. If I didn’t have a guide right there I would have gotten lost for sure.
We rented a car, and it had a navigation system. The system was very cool, and it also played DVDs, CDs, and got TV reception. Unfortunately, all the menus were in Japanese, so I couldn’t do too much with it. We just used it to get from place to place. One interesting feature is that all you had to do was type in the phone number of a place, and it would get you there. That was pretty handy.
The first temple we went to was north of Kyoto, up in the mountains. The drive was about 20 minutes, up winding roads. At the base of the temple is a long staircase made of rocks, and Miss Kageyama and I jumped out of the car and hiked up. Mr. Hayashi and Mr. Komuri drove around and met us at the top. There was a restaurant along the way, but we didn’t stop until we got to the top of the steps and met the guys there.
The temple itself was almost deserted, and we were able to walk all over the grounds. Some of the most interesting things are the religious artifacts that are inside the main temple, but there are no pictures allowed there so I can’t really show you what they looked like. They had large golden statues of four gods, and then one almost black statue that was supposed to be from the 1200’s. It was amazing to see.
The big attraction is a trail that leads to a cliff on the side of the mountain, and from there you can buy small plates made of clay and throw them off the side of the cliff, while making a wish. Mr. Hayashi and Mr. Komuri’s plates went a long way – I could tell they have been making wishes up here for a while. Mine was like a lame duck, wobbling as it fell. Not too impressive, but as it turned out my wish came true!
We went back to Kyoto and found a restaurant that Mr. Komuri recommended, and for the first time in Japan I ate in the traditional Japanese style. We sat on the floor on tatami mats, and there was a doorway that opened out on to a small garden. It was a great atmosphere, and the menu was built around buckwheat. Yes, buckwheat. We had buckwheat tea, noodles, appetizers, everything. The only thing that didn’t have buckwheat was the beer. You were able to grind up your own fresh wasabi by rubbing the wasabi root against a small piece of wood with shark skin attached to it. You collected the paste that resulted and put it on your food – it was delicious.
After lunch we went to Kinkaku, or the Rokuon-ji Temple in central Kyoto. On the temple grounds is a building that had it’s second and third floors entirely covered with gold leaf. It was a pretty dramatic sight – and there were tourists everywhere. As I walked along I heard English, Japanese, Chinese, and Korean – this is a must-see for Kyoto tourists. Even though my stay in Japan is temporary, I felt a little sense of pride when I saw all these tourists – they will be here for a week or two and never get to see and do many of the experiences that I’ve related in this journal. It makes me wonder how much I have missed when I toured new places in my travels in the United States.
After Kinkaku, we went out of town again to visit another temple, the Sanzen-in Temple. This area had a temple, but it also had extensive grounds where you could walk around and see gardens, ponds, and streams. Inside the buildings we were able to practice Japanese calligraphy, which was very difficult. The pens they had were very nice, though – I’m going to have to buy one for home practice!
We spent a few minutes at a cafe after walking through the temple, recharging our batteries and enjoying the view. The cafe was perched on the side of the mountain, and although the view right outside our window was a gravel parking lot, the view beyond that was spectacular. The sun was just starting to go down and it lit up the valley filled with cedar trees just right. That combined with an open air cafe, sitting on pillows with good friends drinking homemade Calpis soda – oh yeah.
We drove back to Kyoto, and returned the car. We ended up getting there late, but they didn’t charge us anything – they were very friendly. We took the train back to Kobe, and Mr. Hayashi had set up a dinner at another Indian restaurant (I’ve eaten a lot of Indian food lately). He had arranged some special deal, and we ate like kings and had our drinks for free. The food was much spicier than the other Indian food I’ve had in Japan, and I decided that this place was my favorite.
We got back on the train, but it was still only around seven o’clock. I told everyone that I was going to get off the train at the next stop, and I think they were all curious. I said my goodbyes, and then dropped in on Like, Like for a beer. Like, Like was empty of customers, so they were rocking out to the Beatles very loudly in there. They were surprised to see me there alone – usually I have Antoine and Nel with me. I sat and talked with Yoshi, the bartender, and then I got to meet the owner’s daughter, who speaks a little English. I ended up talking with her for almost an hour. She was very cool – she promised to study English hard so that the next time we speak we can carry on a better conversation.
I jumped on the train and finally headed home. As I walked by the yakitori place, one of the guys that had invited me to watch softball leaned out the door and called me in there. The place was full of the softball players and their families, so I ended up having a couple of beers there and talking with the master and his customers. Some of the customers were pretty drunk, and wanted to try out their English with me. Two little boys were running around playing with their Game Boys, and I talked with one and we practiced writing Japanese characters on chopstick wrappers.
They organized a big barbecue for me today, so I’m going to meet someone at the yakitori place around 2 o’clock. It should be a lot of fun. I think most of these guys will be pretty hung over, but it was really nice of them to do it. It started out being eight people attending, but then they got on their cell phones and by the time I left, it was around fourteen people.
Finally, I got home, and had a couple of messages on my machine. One was from my parents, who had called while I was in Kyoto. The other was from Miss Kageyama. She had heard from the job interview, and she had gotten the job in Osaka! She was so excited that she was speaking half in Japanese and half English, but I got the message. The weird thing was that I wished for her to get the job as I threw my wobbly plate off the cliff, so there you go. Maybe I should become a monk or something. Do they get to drink beer?