Bath, Cheddar, and a Moment of Zen

In the morning we had “full English breakfast” with some Australians staying here. Toast, poached egg, mushrooms, tomatoes, bacon, sausage, and tea. Some OJ, too. Went from there on to Bath to see the Roman bathhouses. Pretty incredible architecture all around. Went to the oldest pub in Bath – the Saracen’s Head.

We walked around some more – went on a bus tour through town, and saw all the general sights. I took a lot of pictures.

Went from there on to Cheddar. We drove down the Cheddar gorge into town. Somewhat of a tourist trap, but great cheese. We ate cheese and crackers with our beer along the main road through Cheddar. There were cave tours, but we skipped them.

We drove back to our bed and breakfast (Valley Farm) and got ready to hit a pub for dinner. The pub was called “The Pony and the Trap”. Really great food – best of the trip so far. The hired help was outstanding, and the Guinness and view were great. We could see the whole countryside from the patio out back. We drove back and hit the hay.

Almost ten years to the day I’m copying my journal to the web to keep it for posterity, and I still remember this day quite clearly. The evening at the pub is especially clear in my mind because it was one of those zen moments you have in life that stay with you forever. I remember sitting out back of the pub on picnic tables and gazing into the horizon – fields and hedgerows and fields and sheep – as far as the eye could see. Drinking Guinness with my father and my uncle and feeling like we were on top of the world. It was more than the alcohol talking – this was the first trip for me outside of North America, and I felt like horizons were opening.

It is funny to read my writing about “the hired help” at the pub. Two of the waitstaff were beautiful young women, and they were clearly interested in talking with an American. Our next destination was Wales, but my American accent confused them and they kept asking me if I was going to Wells, a nearby town. Great memories at that place, and maybe a seed was planted there that grew into an itch to travel later on.

King’s Cross, Stonehenge, Bristol

We had breakfast and checked out of the hotel, then lugged our luggage down the steps of the Underground and then back up the steps to King’s Cross station. While we rested I was able to peer through the train station and see platforms 9 and 10 – made famous by the Harry Potter books. A lot of semi-belligerent drunks were strolling about – one got sick within a few feet of us.

We took our luggage and walked 5 blocks or so to the car rental place and spent 90 minutes getting a car rented. Dad took the wheel and we headed to the M4 out of London. Unfortunately the signs were less that adequate – and we got lost. Spent about two hours driving around some strange streets before we found our way again. It was very frustrating. We almost crashed several times because of oncoming careless drivers.

About an hour and a half or so out of London we started south towards Avebury to see Stonehenge. It was an amazing sight. The most striking thing about it was it’s location – no trees – just in the middle of a wide open field and a huge sky overhead. They charged 4 pounds to get in, but all the concessions/admissions were very well hidden. Lots of people, but you didn’t notice. Stonehenge was roped off, but you could get quite close.

From there we headed to Bristol and looked for our bed & breakfast. Very picturesque English countryside. Nice lady running it (Mrs. Keele). The place was called Valley Farm. We walked to a pub for dinner, but they didn’t serve food on Mondays (par for the course today). We drove into the next village, Chew Magna, and ate at the Pelican Inn. It was a nice little pub – great food. There was a little baby on the bar and teenagers doing homework at the tables. Had a few beers and headed back for sleep.

London Tower Hill, Portabello Street

We got an early start and hopped the Underground for Tower Hill – we had purchased tickets the day before for the Tower of London. It ended up being the smartest thing we’ve done so far. The lines were huge, but we went straight to the front and walked right in at 10::00 am. We went right to the crown jewels – I stopped briefly to nod at the royal guard, who ignored me. The jewels were pretty cool – so big they looked fake. I guess I couldn’t really appreciate the authenticity.

The rest of the tower was pretty cool – the white tower was filled with some great exhibits, very nicely done. We chatted with some Beefeaters – they gave me directions to Portabello Street, where I was looking for some antique jewelry for Sara. Unfortunately, no luck. It was pretty much closed up for Sunday.

We walked up and down Portabello Street and ended up eating at a pub. Good burger and fish and chips. They only served Samuel Smiths beer – a pretty good stout. We went back to the hotel for a nap, and then went down to the hotel pub for beers. We had some Extra Cold Guinness. Ran down the street for dinner at Garfunkel’s (a Denny’s type place). We went back to the hotel pub for some live music (The Tides – an Irish band with a great fiddler and a crappy singer). Then back to bed to rest our stair-worn legs.

Roaming London

Breakfast in the hotel – had some English bacon – just really salty ham – pretty tough to eat and very salty. We hopped onto an open-topped red bus and toured the entire city of London. Saw the Tower of London, Parliament, Westminster Abbey… all the tourist attractions at 45 mph.

We left the bus and checked out the house guards, Parliament, and Big Ben on foot. Got some good pictures. Pretty much all the spots are available via the Underground. It is very amazing – some of the stations are very modern and some are pretty old and remote.

We had a Chinese buffet near Notting Hill, which was very good. We ate at the top floor and got to see the town bustling beneath us. We sprinted (a little late) over to Waterloo station (home of the chunnel trains) to ride the London Eye, a monstrous ferris wheel that held many people in each car. A French family cut in front of us in line – pleading to the attendant that their tickets were for 9:00 pm. He let them through even though our tickets were for 8:30 – we didn’t mention that. We ended up sharing a car.

The view was spectacular – the sun was setting as we rode up, and we saw London by day on the way up and London by night on the way down – perfect!

We walked to Big Ben from there and then took the Underground back to the hotel for beers and bed.

Flying into London

Flew in and spent 30 minutes in customs, then walked to the Heathrow underground station and took a long train ride to the transfer station – we jumped on a transfer train and stopped at our station – Marble Arch. We turned right as we left the station and found our hotel (The Cumberland) facing the Marble Arch. We dropped off our stuff and went exploring.

Walked past McDonald’s and KFC and found the “Marlborough Head” pub – probably a chain, thoug. Good “potato niblets” and even better Guinness… no local brews. We walked to Grosenver Square – a pro-American area dedicated to American war heroes. No pubs, so we walked on. Stopped at the “Shepherd’s Mow” and had some good (somewhat warm) beer and watched a cricket game on TV. We headed to Picadilly Circus and saw the sights – stopped at a bar, too.

There really is a language barrier – we’ve had trouble being understood by the locals – they seem slightly amused. I’m worried if we’re having trouble communicating in London – I wonder if we’ll have more trouble in the countryside. We had a great Italian meal at “The Spaghetti House” and headed back to crash at the hotel.