I woke up this morning with just a touch of a hangover from all the beers last night. I made myself an egg sandwich, and then set about cleaning up around the house. I got the chance to talk to my folks on the phone, and also to do just a bit of grocery shopping.
Around 12:30 Kuniko dropped by to pick me up, and we drove west in her car towards Okayama. I’ve been to Okayama a couple of times, and it’s definitely a rural prefecture. There isn’t much there, but there is a lot more nature than what I’m used to seeing in my own corner of Japan.
The drive took about two hours. We took the toll road – it’s kind of like a turnpike on the east coast of America. It was expensive – around 3000 yen ($30) to travel about 160 kilometers (about 100 miles). We stopped in at a rest area to buy omiyage and some lunch – sushi, some potato croquettes, and soft serve ice cream. I had black sesame ice cream – a first for me. It was great!
The whole reason behind the trip to Okayama was to for me to see fireflies. Kuniko and I were talking a while back and I mentioned that I’d always wanted to see fireflies, but I’ve never had the chance. It’s been on my list of things to do for years. Anyway, Kuniko’s sister Tomoko lives in Okayama in a town that is famous for the fireflies that appear there in the summer. She arranged a trip, and we were on our way.
We arrived at the tiny town of Hokubo where Tomoko lives and works. It is a really small town – I don’t know what I would have done if I was stuck in a town like this… probably I’d only stay one year, that’s for sure.
Tomoko met us outside her apartment and we all jumped in her car to meet the vice-principal of her school. He was curious to meet Kuniko and speak English with her, because he is a former English teacher himself. Tomoko had told him that they were also bringing an ALT, so he was pretty excited about that. The only problem was I guess they had kind of assumed that I was going to be a female.
I got some strange looks, and Kuniko got some too. I think they were trying to figure out the nature of my relationship to Kuniko and her sister. I didn’t give them any hints, and let them work it out on their own. Surprisingly, there was hardly any English spoken – the vice principal might have been a little nervous about speaking. It was good listening practice for me, though. We had a nice long chat, and his wife brought out tea, cake and sandwiches.
After our chat, we decided to hit the road. The fireflies weren’t due until 8 or 9 p.m., so we had lots of time to kill. Unfortunately, the weather was starting to threaten, and apparently the fireflies don’t come out when it’s raining.
We drove around the countryside for a while, but things were starting to close down. We went to a touristy town called Katsuyama, and I got a chance to do some sake tasting. They had a sake there that had 30% alcohol. It was pretty good, but a bit overwhelming. Their regular sake tasted a bit better.
By now we were all getting a little hungry. Tomoko had offered to buy dinner at a yakiniku place that she knew of, so we went there next. The place was pretty busy. Kuniko and Tomoko took care of all the ordering, and so all I had to do was cook my meat and eat it. I’m a big fan of yakiniku. It’s like grilling indoors. We had lots of different kinds of beef, kim-chee, yakisoba, steaks, and even some frozen strawberries with cream inside. It was a huge feast, but it was starting to rain pretty hard as we left. No fireflies!
Tomoko assured us that there was nothing to worry about. We went back to her place, and lounged about in the living room to watch some TV and give Kuniko a chance to rest up. She has been working long hours, and she was looking at a two hour drive home. At around 8:30, we gathered up our gear and umbrellas and went outside.
That far out in the country there isn’t a lot of light, and so we had to kind of grope through the dark to find the main road east towards the river. It was a little creepy walking around out there among the rice paddies with so much moisture in the air and the crickets making the only noise. Not 100 steps from Tomoko’s apartment, we saw a firefly.
The firefly was making it’s way through an old graveyard that sat at the base of a mountainside. Everybody stopped to check it out, and it flew around us in a circle before flying off into the woods. As we kept walking, and the river got closer, more and more fireflies would appear. I wasn’t expecting to see any because of the rain, so I was surprised to see so many!
At the river itself, it was a bit of a tourist draw. They had closed the road to cars so they headlights wouldn’t bother the flies and people. There were fireflies everywhere, and they pulsed with a strange green light, almost all at the same time. They stayed near the river, not really getting close to the people.
We enjoyed watching them for almost half an hour, and then walked the long way back along the river to see if we could see some more. They just kept appearing, and one even landed on Kuniko’s hand. We passed it around, and it was really cool to see up close. The light from it’s abdomen illuminated your hand as it walked around. It didn’t really feel like flying away, so we just let it stroll around a bit and then we let it go.
I was excited to be able to see something like that up close – it was really cool. Back at the apartment we said our goodbyes to Tomoko, and then began our long drive back. We stopped in at a rest stop along the way. I offered to drive illegally, but Kuniko insisted on staying at the wheel the whole time.
We had planned on her staying the night at my place, so we came back here and crashed out – we were both exhausted. What a day, and what an adventure!