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Bryan

The Other Side of the Media Hole

Well I finally took in the Lost finale and am back on the interwebs. Luckily I was able to watch without any spoilers, and I could enjoy the experience. I first watched the show when I had pretty much just arrived in Japan, so now that it is over it does feel a little strange. I kind of associated the show with being overseas.

Speaking of feeling strange, single life is continuing here and it does feel a little weird going about my day alone. The last few evenings I’ve been eating Mexican food for dinner, but tonight it’ll be back to Japanese food for a while. I’ve been listening to music in the evenings and watching the occasional TV show – pretty mellow stuff.

I’ve been surfing the web now and then for news on the world. It has been pretty tense over in the Koreas lately with sabers rattling and what not, so I have been checking up on news. Google provides a lot of news, but often it is just 1000 articles with the same basic content. I’ve decided to adjust my media stream a little bit – especially trying to cut out U.S. media organizations. It is surprising how heated and shrill those organizations can get sometimes.

Well, off to work. Things at the workplace are the same as ever – lots of classes and the students are hopefully remembering all the English intake and output that is happening in class. I was able to recommend The House of Prime Rib in San Francisco to a student on business there, and he sent me a mail saying that he was able to get reservations. I haven’t heard how the meal went, but I hope there is a doggie bag in it for me.

It Happens

Friday night two things happened that were blog-worthy – I met Yoshi in Tarumi and we had a very delicious meal, and Kuniko had a slight hiccup in the plans for her school trip to Vancouver.

While Yoshi and I were eating some very traditional foods in an izakaya in the backstreets of Tarumi, Kuniko was flying with her students from Itami airport in Osaka to Narita airport in Tokyo.

By the time Yoshi and I had started eating the sea bream head served on a platter one of Kuniko’s students decided that maybe this trip wasn’t the best idea for her, and asked to go home instead.

That meant that the other teacher on the trip took the students on the original flight, and Kuniko took the student who changed her mind back to Tokyo station to wait for her parents to come on the bullet train to pick her up.

Around midnight the parents arrived to get their daughter, and Kuniko had to go get a hotel and stay overnight in Tokyo to catch the same flight the next day.

She kept me posted on developments during the evening, and eventually she got a flight yesterday. It was just a trick to kill a day in Tokyo without adding to her luggage that she was already bringing.

As for me, I spent Saturday by myself doing the usual stuff: walking around town trying to burn calories, shopping for groceries for the week, doing laundry and listening to music. I grilled some chicken and pork for tacos, and an hour after I covered up the barbecue and brought in the laundry it started to sprinkle outside. This morning it is pouring outside, so it looks like my timing was good.

Today I’ll probably relax indoors and enjoy the sound of the rain in the background. Tomorrow it is back to work, and I’ll be on a media blackout until after I see the Lost finale.

Bon Voyage Kuniko

Last night after work Kuniko and I happened to meet at the station coming home, thanks to some fortuitous timing. In these very rare cases (and because it was our last meal together for a while, and the fridge was empty) we usually end up at the local yakitori. We had a small dinner there eating the usual suspects – tsukune, negimi, kimo, shisomaki, and toridon. We recently discovered uzuratamago tsukune, which consists of two hardboiled quail eggs wrapped in ground chicken and grilled – excellent with spicy Chinese mustard.

After the yakitori we came home and Kuniko put the finishing touches on her packing, and then we had a farewell cocktail before watching some TV and heading to bed.

This morning she left the house rolling her suitcase behind her, and she’ll have to teach some classes today before gathering her flock and heading to the airport. This time they will fly first to Tokyo and change planes before heading to Vancouver.

As for me, I’m off to work soon. It will be a busy day at work as some of my students have double classes, which means there are a lot of things I need to do to keep them talking for 90 minutes.

After work I’m meeting Yoshi for a beer or two in Tarumi. He has a new izakaya that he wants to recommend to me, so we’ll meet and then go check it out.

Countdown to Canada

We’re just a day away from Kuniko’s departure to Vancouver, and I think she is pretty much packed. There hasn’t been a lot of time available in the evenings because she has had to work late this week a couple of times, there was a student home visit last night, and a lot of paperwork to prepare as well. Tomorrow she’ll take her suitcase to work, and then after a morning class or two head to the airport with her students.

As for me, I have a meet-up with Yoshi on Friday night tentatively scheduled, but I’m not sure what we’re doing yet. Maybe just a quick drink and then head home – maybe a wild night on the town. We’ll see, but I’m feeling a little tired from the workweek and maybe an early night is in order.

Outside we are completely socked in by fog – it will be an interesting commute. In the 2-3 years I’ve lived in Okubo I’ve only seen fog once before, so it is a bit of a rare weather phenomenon around here. Hopefully it won’t interfere with the train schedule.

English as a Policy

Yesterday after work a few of my students from last term dropped by the classroom to chat. I have been lucky to have visits from quite a few of my ex-students this term, and it has made the afternoons a lot more lively than they were before. Today’s students wanted to talk about their recent business trips, as well as try to get some inside information on some of their coworkers who are taking my class now. We went over to the break room and talked out in the open in English, and they were really enjoying it.

Between classes I was surfing the web and found this interesting article on a large corporation in Japan called Rakuten that has made it a policy to conduct all formal meetings in English. Even if all participants happen to be Japanese, they will do the meeting in English. As the article mentions, it is part of their strategy for overseas expansion, and they are also hiring a lot of non-Japanese both inside and outside Japan to help with this expansion. This isn’t new in Japan – other big companies also have made English the language of business within the company (i.e. Nissan) but this is the first time I’ve seen it in the implementation stage. I wish I could be a fly on the wall during their first meeting in English.

It seems my complaining about the heat brought about some change – today the rain came, and it looks like it will be here a while. Ick. But I still had an iced coffee this morning out of protest.

Signs of Heat

Things are heating up around Kobe with temperatures approaching early summer numbers, and that means some changes around here. Iced coffees, short sleeve dress shirts, and taking out the smelly garbage on time become much more important. Carrying a handkerchief to mop up the sweat, turning on the AC once in a while, and turning down the household water temperature are all going to start happening in the near future.

I’m not ready for the summer yet.

This will be my first summer hiking 15 minutes in the heat from the station to work, so it should prove to be pretty sweaty, especially in the morning right after my shower. I have air conditioning at work, but it will be interesting to see just how hot and sweaty it gets every day.

Welcome to the Rotation

Saturday evening we were invited over to dinner at Mr. and Mrs. Fukumi’s place across the street from our house. Since we moved into the neighborhood some of the neighbors have been throwing “home parties”, which consists of inviting other families over for a dinner hosted at your house. This is a custom that is exceedingly rare in Japan, as most people would have the party at a restaurant somewhere.

This has led to some great parties. We have hosted a couple at our house, the Yamaji’s down the road have hosted a couple, and this time it was the Fukumi’s that had a chance to throw one. Unfortunately the Yamaji’s couldn’t make it due to his work schedule, so we partied with just the four of us plus Sayaka’s sister. It was the first time to meet her, and she was friendly and talkative.

The Fukumi’s went all out on dinner – salad, cheese, appetizers, roasted beef ribs and seafood paella. It was so good – we ate and drank and talked about the neighborhood. There were some interesting stories but nothing sordid. I guess that is just the right amount for us. One of the highlights was some bread that they had bought from a friend who is starting a business. This bread was multi-grain and had a lot of flavor, and it went well with the cheese and olive oil. I’m going to try to find out where their source is and get some for us sometime.

We were having such a good time that when Kuniko whispered that we should probably head home I was surprised that the time had flown by so quickly. Luckily it is an easy walk back to our house – one of the best things about having a party in your own neighborhood.

Sunday we spent the morning lounging around. Kuniko did some packing for her trip to Canada (departing on Friday) and I reread some parts of my favorite books and listened to music. We drove out to Futami for dinner at Sushiro, a 100 yen conveyor belt sushi place that had some pretty good dishes. After 16 plates of sushi we headed over to Ito Yokado for some shopping and then home for a bath and bed.

As I mentioned at the end of the week Kuniko is taking off for Canada, so I’m starting to think about what I’ll do with a week or so to myself. No plans yet, but I’m sure something will come up.

Not Hungry 20 Minutes Later

Last night after work I had several students drop by for some extra chatting and a couple of extra work assignments, so it looks like I’ll be a little busier today than usual. It was good to see these students again – for some of them it had been two or three months since I’ve talked with them.

Once traffic died down in my classroom I was off to meet Kuniko in Tarumi. By chance we both caught the same train, so we met on the platform of Tarumi station and then went out the the restaurant. We ordered a bunch of stuff – mabotofu, sweet/sour pork with black vinegar, steamed shumai, seafood yakisoba, roasted cha-shu, and breaded chicken ankake. The food was excellent, although we were a little disappointed with the sweet and sour pork – they didn’t include many vegetables, only pork. I hate to complain, because pork is probably the most expensive part of the dish, but the balance of veggies and meat is fairly important I think.

While the dishes were coming out of the kitchen, the lady serving us looked a little concerned that we could eat all of it. Finally, with just one dish left to come out of the kitchen, she stopped by our table and confirmed that we still could eat it when it arrived. Not the joking/smiling/friendly confirmation, but more like “You are aware that you have an entire dish still coming, right?”

Despite her concern we did manage to eat everything, and it was two very stuffed people walking out of there. We definitely skipped dessert, and we’ll probably both skip lunch today as well. But it was good to have Chinese again.

Put The Script Away

We’re in the middle of the work week and things are starting to shift towards the weekend. Kuniko and I are going to end the week with a little change of pace – we’re going out to dinner tonight at a Chinese restaurant that my friend Yoshi introduced me to. Called “Sacred Dragon” (聖龍), it is a tiny little place in the quiet neighborhoods of Tarumi. For some reason we’ve both been craving Chinese food recently, so we’re scratching that itch today.

Despite a full work week things are going pretty smoothly at work. The classes are going fairly well, and I have a larger diversity of skill ranges this go-around. Student motivation remains high, and a lot of students are sent off on business trips fairly soon after taking my class. The realization that the English that they learn today will be needed tomorrow really makes a big difference in how the classes (and the students) progress.

Still, there are some students that fear wide open communication – and will go to great measures to avoid it. Often this is due to low confidence, and now one of my tasks is try to get these students to open up and have a natural conversation. It is not an easy task, because these students probably feel like they are great speakers of English under their controlled conditions – but I have to slowly and carefully knock them off their track and try to push the conversation to different areas. They’ve got to realize that real conversations rarely follow scripts – and sooner or later they’re going to have to get out of the kiddie pool and head to the deep end.

OK – off to work and then Tarumi for Chinese. We should have a fun weekend ahead of us, but more on that later.

Gaijin Landmark, English Heartthrob

On the train home yesterday I had a couple of strange experiences overhearing some people speaking Japanese. The first was when two high school age students got on the train and actually used me as a landmark.

“Let’s stand here in front of the gaijin so that when he gets off we can take his spot.”

I looked right at them when they said that, and I could tell the boy who said it was wondering if it was somehow possible to suck the words back into his mouth and un-say them. Sorry dude – I caught that. They still stood in front of me, and were a little disappointed that I didn’t get off the train before they did.

Two stops after that a pair of junior high school girls got on the train and were admiring my appearance out loud in Japanese.

“Foreigners are so cool, aren’t they?”
“Yes – I wish I had a tall nose like he has.”
“Where do you think he comes from?”
“I don’t know. He looks a little English.”

I tried to keep a straight face, and managed to for most of the conversation. One of the girls was staring at me, and when my head moved like I might turn in her direction, she turned away quickly. They kept this up for a while but finally I had to smile at the goofy comments, and I caught them both staring at the same time. They both started giggling, and luckily got off at the next stop, waving goodbye as they went. Once they were off the train they started screaming with laughter, and other people on the platform watched them walk away with curiosity.

So the moral of the story is that you can ride the train for six months and never hear a word about you – and then hear about yourself twice in the same day. Always interesting, the life here.

Getting The Rice Started

We had a very nice time at Sigassiga on Friday night. It was the last meal there for us, but it turns out that Fujiwara-san will still keep his other restaurant open in Sannomiya, so next time we’ll have to go check that place out. The food on Friday was served “omakase” style – we just told the chef that we’d like him to select our menu, and he brought everything out in courses. The highlight was the pasta course – beef tail and asparagus – yum.

After Sigassiga we headed over to another favorite – the Spanish izakaya hidden down a side street near Tokyu Hands. They are starting to recognize me there, which resulted in getting a table on a very busy night. There it was another bottle of wine (a Primitivo) and several tapas dishes to keep us going. The atmosphere at this place is really nice, and it is fun to watch people there having a good time.

Yesterday Kuniko and I went to her family’s rice field to help get the rice crop started. It was the first stage of the process – we used a small machine to fill hundreds of trays with soil, fertilizer, rice seeds and water. Then we drove the trays out to one of the fields, donned our big rubber boots and sloshed around laying everything out in the mud. This was my third or fourth time doing it, and so between me and Atsushi (my brother-in-law-in-law) we laid out the trays at breakneck speed. It was good to see Kuniko’s dad relent a little and let us do some work for a change. He is really big on attention to detail, and so handing over some of the workload to us was a big deal for him.

After a couple hours of work on the rice, we raided their nearby field for strawberries, onions and snap peas, and then headed to their home to have dinner as a group. Atsushi and Tomoko stuck around for dinner as well, so it was nice to have the family together for mother’s day.

We’re both beat from a long day in the sun yesterday, and as one of my students pointed out – we don’t have another holiday at my workplace for more than seven weeks. Time to buckle down and get some work done.

Thank God You’re Back… Can You Read This Kanji?

After a very long and relaxing five day holiday I came back to work, and things were cranking along normally. One of my students couldn’t make class because of an extended business trip, but other than that it was business as usual for me.

During one of my morning classes there was a knock on the door, and it was one of the American inspectors from down the hall. These inspectors live in Japan and work on-site to monitor the building of trains. They are a couple of older guys who are pretty friendly – we’ve gone drinking a couple of times.

The guy knocking on my door was covered in sweat, and he asked me if I knew how to turn on the air conditioning. He couldn’t read the controls (they are in Japanese), and he knew I could, so he asked me to help him out. I showed him how it worked, and he thanked me and went back to his office to cool down. It reminded me of how hard it could be to live here if I couldn’t read or speak the language – something I take for granted recently. Still, he has been in Japan longer than I have, he just hasn’t studied Japanese, so I guess every now and then you get a sweat bath.

Tonight Kuniko is meeting me in Kobe after work for a last dinner at our favorite restaurant SiGassiga. I got a message that they are going out of business at the end of this month, so it is our last chance to eat there. Pretty sad, really – we eat out a lot in Kobe, but SiGassiga is the most consistent in terms of quality of friendliness. I’m hoping tonight I get a clue on where the chef (Atsushi Fujiwara) is headed next. Hopefully he’ll open a restaurant somewhere else – we’d gladly follow him there.

On Noise in My Neighborhood

We wound up a big holiday week with a very chill Wednesday, sitting around the house doing paperwork, reading books, watching Lost (OK, that was just me) and then grilling some sausages for dinner.

Now that summer-like weather is upon us, the windows are open a lot more often, and yesterday we could once more experience Shrieking Boy Syndrome.

SBS? What does it mean? Before you ask your doctor if it is right for you, I’ll explain that it actually is just our neighbor’s teenage kid, who doesn’t seem to realize that their house’s windows are open. I think he gets overly excited playing video games, and he starts shrieking and yelling like a little girl. It’s not just him – sometimes his friends stop by and they shriek too. It is pretty loud, and I think the whole neighborhood can hear it.

Actually, we only hear it when we our windows are open, we are on holiday, and the kid is also on holiday. Which turns out to be a quite rare combination. Still, it is a little unsettling sometimes, and I feel the very non-Japanese urge to go over there and ask him to take a tranquilizer.

But there are distinct advantages to having a noisy neighbor in a quiet neighborhood – with the major one being that we don’t really have to worry about us being too noisy. We are known to have some parties now and then, and sometimes the music might get a little loud, but I don’t worry about it. We’ll never be as bad as our neighbors – call it a surplus of noise credit. I just wish it paid interest.

Golden Week

Kuniko and I have spent the last couple days enjoying as much as we can the Golden Week holidays. We long ago decided to stay home these holidays and save money, since we’ll need that money later this summer.

So that means mainly we’ve stayed close to home. We made a Costco run at the beginning of the holidays, and yesterday we went into Osaka to poke around and see what was going on. We had heard that a new Krispy Kreme donuts had opened (the only one in western Japan), but when we walked by the wait was 90 minutes, and it seemed like a big waste of time.

We did get to check out Douguyasuji – an area that sells kitchen equipment to restaurants and the public. It was pretty cool to look through all the tools and unique equipment. Our kitchen is already pretty stocked, but I did pick up a silicon spatula – the first one that I’ve found that is completely silicon (rather than just the blade).

From tomorrow it is back to work, and I’ll be back on my regular blogging schedule. Just two days of work this week – the next weekend will be here before we know it.

The View From Inside

The other day after work I joined some of my students in a post-work party. While it started with just a few members, it increased in size rapidly when people found out that one of the vice-presidents of the company was going to be there. That means the company would pay.

The VP wanted to have the party at Kanetaka, a yakiniku place near the station that apparently is pretty famous for the area. The dinner was great – excellent cuts of meat and some of the best yukke that I’ve ever had. It was a good dinner because one of the managers started off by asking if I could use chopsticks (which is a very common question for foreigners in Japan) but saw when I started digging into raw beef with egg that I was no beginner to this.

One interesting custom I observed was that the two youngest members were in charge of grilling the meat for the rest of us. Possibly that was the only reason they were invited – I’m not exactly sure. It was a good deal for them – just grill the food and get a free meal out of it, but there was no chance for me to work the grill. The other “older” guys really seemed to enjoy the chance to relax and let them do the work – maybe because they had to spend a long time in the past grilling meat for other people.

It was good to get to know the other members better, and one of my students from last year’s class could also attend. I got the sense that he wanted to show the executive that he could in fact handle conversations in English, and so I did everything I could to make him look good. Maybe a promotion is on the line – who knows?

After dinner we got up and headed out, and somebody took care of the bill – I never saw money changing hands. One of the guys whispered in my ear that they were headed to a second party, and so we said goodbye and thanks to the VP, and headed to a taxi line near the station. At this point, the next senior member took charge of the party. Our group split into two parties to fit into two cabs, and the manager gave us a card to give to the taxi driver. At first I thought it was the address, but it turns out that it had the manager’s account number on it, and when we arrived at the destination we just wrote the total amount and signed it and we didn’t have to pay the cab fare. That was a first for me. The guys I was with said that it was a pretty old tradition, and one of the signs of upper management if you could set up that system.

Next we went to a snack just outside Motomachi station in Kobe. It was my first time to be in a “real” snack, and this one was upscale and pretty interesting. I always view these experiences through the lens of cultural sociology, and this place didn’t disappoint.

We sat down at a wide table, and the master of the place – an older lady in kimono – welcomed us and started marshaling her troops. A pretty woman in her 40s came over with a big bottle of whiskey, and started to chatting with us while she issued whiskey/waters on the rocks. They also brought a bunch of snack foods to munch on while we talked with her. Mainly the topic was me/foreign people, and it turned out that one of the women working there was half Japanese and half Greek. Everybody was feeling very international, and the lady helping us kept our drinks topped up while we relaxed and talked.

And by topped up, I mean it. She watched all of us carefully, and when our drinks got to about half full she grabbed the glass and refilled it with a whiskey and water mix. One of the members of the group whispered to me that each time we got a new glass that was another 1000 yen on the bill, and so I’m guessing it was an expensive night for the manager.

Around this time a squad of new women came in and started sitting with us and some new customers that were coming in. Some younger, some older, but all of them ready to talk about anything you like and eager to refill your glass while they kept you talking. It was interesting to watch them work and see what skills were essential for their job – I’m guessing that conversational skills, social skills, and patience were the top three. Maybe karaoke singing is up there too; they rolled out a karaoke machine and our group did some English songs for a little while. I even sang a duet of Celene Dione’s “My Heart Will Go On” with our bartender/hostess – probably to go down as one of the quintessential moments of Japan that I will always remember.

While we drank and talked the women rotated into our group, and I thought it very Japanese that they never really singled anybody out – they played and spoke to the entire group. They quickly identified the guy who was paying, and made sure to sit next to him. They talked for a while and then disappeared to be replaced with someone else. At the end of the night a woman came over and said that I was the first foreigner she had ever met, but I didn’t really believe that. She tried to understand my English while another member translated for her. I could have switched to Japanese, but the “translator” was getting a lot of mileage out of it and I think he enjoyed whispering Japanese into her ear.

So all this was happening on a school night, and we finally decided to wrap things up and head out. Four of the women came out to see us off at the steps as we headed back to the station, and I said my goodbyes to the guys there and then caught a train back to Okubo. Kuniko listened to my stories with some amusement, and then we went off to bed to try to rest up.

Despite my turn as Celine Dione I was surprised to find that I still had a voice, so no problem at work the next day. I talked with some of the party members at work, and you could tell right away that the business relationship had changed. I was inside the circle now, and that new position is bound to have some interesting effects in the future.