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Bryan

Long Time No Sushi

Today is a big day for a lot of reasons (of which I can speak of only a few here), not the least of which is a night out for sushi in a new restaurant. Our neighbors (The Yamaji family) recommended a sushi restaurant a while back that is about a 15 minute walk from the station in Okubo towards the ocean. We tried to make a reservation last night but Thursday is their day off, so I’ll try to make a call sometime today between classes. We haven’t had sushi in about a month, which is a long time when you live in Japan. This place is a small sushi bar, so it should be fun to check out.

It is finally Friday for Kuniko – she’ll have two days off in a row for the first time since we came back from Thailand. We’ll probably make that Costco trip that was postponed from last week, as well as clean up the house and do all the chores that have been piling up because we’re too exhausted during the week. There are a couple of recipes we want to try out for some home cooking also, so we’ll have to devise some form of exercise in there to burn off calories. Maybe a hike in Kobe?

The Quickest Way To Our Hearts

Yesterday on the way home I stopped in at a new eye doctor to get some contact lenses. The new doctor is right along the path to the train station in Okubo, so it is much more convenient than going all the way to Futami where my old doctor is. Also, this doctor stays open to 7pm three days a week, so it is pretty easy to drop in after work.

The nurses were very helpful, and the eye tests were fun as always, and before I knew it it was time to see the doctor. We talked a bit about whether I wear glasses, where I come from, and his experiences in America going to school at Yale. His son is studying at Johns Hopkins currently, and I got bonus points for recognizing the name and praising the school. No discount on the contact bill, though.

I picked up some yogurt for Kuniko to mix into our curry dinner, and then headed home. Just before arriving I bumped into Ms. Fukumi, who just got back from a trip to Las Vegas with her sister. She was looking forward to using English, and lately she has tried to speak English with me whenever possible. She handed over some souvenirs from the trip, and she had brought back a big pack of Reese’s peanut butter cups.

We’re looking into writing her into our will.

Seriously, we don’t get much Reese’s products around here, and after we had introduced them to Mr. and Ms. Fukumi she must have remembered them and searched them out in Vegas. It was very thoughtful of her.

Dinner turned out great and we had a low key evening watching Haneru no Tobira. Two members of the comedy cast had secretly been training in some strange skill for months, and tonight they demonstrated the skills. One member had learned how to solve a Rubik’s cube in under one minute, and how to high dive Olympic style. Another member had learned how to drive a bus and even got his large vehicle driver’s license so that he could drive the bus to the studio and impress everyone. It was a pretty good show last night.

Oldmanspeak

I don’t speak a lot of Japanese these days, mainly English in class and at home, but when I do speak it, I’ve noticed a disturbing trend. Lately I have been shortening some important sounds in the interest of smoother speech. Here’s an example:

To say “It’s cold, isn’t it?” in Japanese, you would say “寒いですね。” (Samui desu ne.)

But recently, I have been trimming off the “de” from “desu” like this:

“Samui ssune.”

Probably the “de” sound is a little out of position for my tongue, and so seeing a chance to be lazy I have been lowering the sound of “de” until it is almost inaudible, and then hissing a little to combine the “su” and the “ne”.

Actually, it sounds very authentic, and I hear it often on TV and in other places in Japan. Unfortunately, it is almost exclusively a characteristic of older male speech.

That’s right – solid linguistic proof that I’m getting old.

I need to work on cleaning up this bad habit now. I wonder what other bad habits I’ve picked up over the years that I’m not aware of…

Your Local Lawsons

One of the big national convenience store chains has two stores between the train station and our house. We prefer using Lawson because they tend to stock a lot of different items, occasionally weird ones, and that makes for superior drunken shopping. We’ve been visiting for a while now, and thanks to my unique appearance we are familiar with most of the clerks. They always give us an extra smile when we come in, and sometimes throw some extra goodies in the bag.

This is one of those cases where being different is good – I’m sure most people that shop there don’t get extras. But I guess they like us a lot, and we are scoring little snacks here and there. They occasionally say hello when walking on the street, and it sometimes takes a second to recognize them without their signature uniforms. There are other choices nearby – 7-11 and Family Mart, but the friendly service (and chance of freebies) at Lawson brings us back.

It is interesting to see this kind of customer service in action. For most Japanese people I think that any convenience store will do, and there are a lot of them to choose from. Usually the transaction is quick and without any warmth. The workers are paid very little and the customers are in a hurry to get on with their day, and so there is no time for small talk (in fact, it probably would piss off the other customers). I wonder what the effect would be if a convenience store chain encouraged a little more warmth in their employees for everyday transactions.

There is a cultural difference in what makes a good transaction – I put a high priority on friendliness, smiling, and the efficiency and speed of the worker. I’m guessing that most Japanese customers have only one priority – efficiency and speed. They may throw in politeness, but the repetitive mechanical chant of “thanks, please come again” passes for politeness here.

The local convenience store is a little sociological snapshot just around the corner – and as you can see, it provides a lot of food for thought for me day to day…

Low Key = Refreshed

It turned out to be a much less busy weekend than we had expected, mainly because we postponed the trip to Costco and slept in until about 10 a.m. instead. That turned out to be a great decision, because we both woke up refreshed and looking forward to the week. The weekend included a get-together with Antoine, who was doing well at work and had a great holiday in Boston. We hit a few places – the Belgian, an Ebisu pub, Reset, and finally Ankh, a “girl bar” in Sannomiya that was empty of people.

One of the things I spent time on this weekend was following up on paperwork for my healthcare and pension, as that is something that I am responsible for myself. My company and I will have a meeting down the road where we discuss this issue and my future, but until that is resolved I have to figure out very complicated paperwork in Japanese, and follow what I consider are archaic rules to deal with them.

At first blush this week is remarkably uneventful – there are no parties/meetings/events scheduled, so it should be a piece of cake. Kuniko was so refreshed that she woke up early this morning and made us bento lunches – we’ll see how long this burst of energy lasts.

Friends

The weekend is finally here, and there is just one more block of classes today to get through. After work today the plan is to meet Antoine for drinks/dinner in Sannomiya. It has been a very long time since we’ve met up, and while we were in Thailand, Antoine visited Boston to see his sister’s family for the holidays. It’ll be good to see what he has been up to.

Our plans this weekend aren’t really set, but Kuniko has a few morning classes on Saturday and then she is free for the rest of the weekend. It is possible that we’ll sneak out to Costco for some shopping (we’re almost out of cheese!), but more likely that we’ll stay around Okubo and rest up, since it has been about three weeks since Kuniko’s last day off.

The other day I got a phone call from an old friend, Vishnu Moola. He was an international student studying winemaking with me back in Fresno State University for a few years. We really hit it off based on our mutual interest in rock music, wine and winemaking, and partying (it was college – what else would we do?)

Anyway, he is back in India near Bangalore, he’s got a family of four to support, and he’s working in the family business of real estate and managing his extended family since his father passed away years ago. He still sounds happy and carefree despite all the changes, and it was great to spend some time talking to him on the phone. We’re back in contact via email and facebook, and it won’t be long before one of use visits the other’s country. I’d love to get to India and check it out, even better if there is someone there who can help show it off.

RBP RIP

Between classes the other day I was clicking through the news online and was shocked to find that one of my favorite authors, Robert B. Parker, had passed away at 77 years old. I had never really thought much about the possibility of him dying, and I realized just how much died with him – all the characters, all the details of Boston, and the clever wit that sewed it all together. It was quite a shock to take in two or three minutes before a student arrived in my classroom.

As I read more news about his passing, it turns out that there are several novels due to be published, so there will be a few more books to satisfy my craving. Actually, I’ve fallen a little behind in reading his books, so if I take it slowly I can probably make it last five years or so before I run out of his material.

There are many exceptionally well written tributes to Mr. Parker all over the web, and I won’t add mine here, but his writing style made a profound impact on me. Anytime I opened one of his books it felt like a I was entering a world that I left behind for a while and was waiting patiently for my return. He will be missed.

The Plunge

This article reminded me of quitting jobs and finding something new. I’ve been lucky enough to leave almost all my jobs on my terms, except for the time that nasty dot com bubble burst. Although I often didn’t have something lined up right away, I always found myself in a better position than I started with. I couldn’t have done it without the help and support of friends and family (you know who you are), but there is a lot to be said for taking a chance and trying something new. In Japan most people have one or possibly two jobs their whole life, and sometimes I can see the trapped feeling in their eyes as they suffer through stress, boredom, and overwork in order to make the payments and support the family. I count my blessings that I started out in a society that is so tolerant to change and transition. So if you aren’t enjoying what you do, take a chance – you will be surprised how things can work out.

Foodfest Aftermath

We had one of those epic eating weekends that ended up spilling into this week. Last Friday we had purokogi pizza delivered in, Saturday was grilled pork tacos, Sunday was kimchee and cheese okonomiyaki, and last night was chicken and red pepper pho. I’m feeling pretty full as you might expect, so the plan this week is to get back to basics. I think we’ve got some salads and udon noodles in our future. My waistline will sure appreciate it.

Thailand – Day 6

We intentionally left the last full day in Bangkok open just in case we had to do some shopping for omiyage before we left, but as it turned out our shopping was finished, and we spent New Year’s Eve just swimming in the pool, Kuniko got another massage and spa treatment, I bought some new earphones for the flight back and generally we took it easy. For dinner we went back out on the streets for some good food – and had a funny encounter with a guy selling watches. We had learned from a website somewhere before the trip that if people were being too persistent in trying to sell you things, you should say “Mai Ow”, which meant something like “I don’t need it, thanks.” Anyway, we had cause to use it a couple of times, and it worked pretty well. While we were eating dinner at this restaurant, however, the guy walking among tables really tried hard to get us to buy his watches. I said “Mai Ow” a couple of times, but he wasn’t leaving. Then Kuniko said it herself, very strongly, and the guy gave her a look of disbelief. For a second I thought he was going to hit her – just a moment of shock on his part, and then he turned around and walked away. We laughed about it afterwards, but there was definitely some cultural confusion going on in that situation.

Since it was New Year’s Eve we decided to go sit in a bar in the red light district and watch the weirdos. The street was right near our hotel, so it worked well as a stopping point. Bars up and down the street were covered with neon, something you didn’t see in a lot of other places in town. Out front Thai women tried hard to entice lonely foreign guys inside, and they were doing a pretty good job of it. During the trip we saw hundreds of grossly overweight white guys walking around with hookers, and it seemed like at least in our area, this was a hub of activity. We went through a couple of beers watching the lonely and the working girls, but security was tight, and it felt like it might get a little more unstable later on. So we left the horny white guys and went back to our hotel bar, and found it filled with Thai people partying. We joined in and had a great time chatting with the bartender and hired help, and ended up having much more fun. We didn’t make it to midnight in the end, however – all the food and beer caught up to us and we went to bed a little earlier than 12:00 a.m.

The next morning it was a taxi to the airport, and a reverse course back through Manila to Osaka. A pretty smooth trip overall, and I’m sure that if we have a chance we’ll be back. But as Kuniko says, there are still a lot of countries out there we haven’t seen.

Thailand – Day 5

One of the destinations that Kuniko absolutely wanted to visit was Wat Phra Sri Sanphet – a collection of ancient tombs outside of Bangkok. To ensure we would get ripped off by a Japanese company rather than a Thai company we made reservations previous and got a nice safe tour of the area guided by a Japanese-speaking Thai tour guide. Having some tour experience last summer in Beijing it went much smoother. It was a day-long trip, and the areas we visited were indeed very beautiful. The tour guide was good about letting us explore on our own, and we were only subjected to one “shopping stop”, so that wasn’t too bad.

Again we could see a lot in just one day, and it was nice to balance a little sightseeing with all the eating and drinking we were up to. Finally we came back into town and decided to eat some food from one of the street restaurants near our hotel. I had noticed a picture menu in the restaurant as we had walked by, and that made ordering much easier. Everyone was really friendly, and we had probably the best meal of the whole trip there for 340 baht ($10). It makes all the difference in the world if you can speak a little bit of the language – an absolute must for eating street food.

Thailand – Day 4

We spent the morning traveling on foot, by train and by boat to the Royal Palace to see the King’s digs. It was a pretty dramatic palace, and I especially liked the color schemes that made up the decorations of the buildings and temples. Kuniko and I sweated through an especially hot day with tons of people, and after an hour or two of palace-viewing it was off to find shelter in a tiny restaurant off the beaten path for beer and noodles. After the late morning snack we took a glance at a giant (!) reclining Buddha, and then we had to buy some beers to break our money enough to catch a boat back to our neck of the woods. All this heat finally got to us, and we ended up buying some swimsuits at the local clothes shop and spending the rest of the day in the hotel pool on the roof, surrounded by skyscrapers filled with people working hard. The swimming pool was a big highlight for us, and it felt strange to splash around in the pool at the end of December.

For dinner we went to a touristy destination called “Cabbages & Condoms”, which was decorated with enough condoms to keep Tiger Woods protected for a long weekend. The food turned out to be plenty spicy, and the fried shrimp with coconut curry was the best dish of the lot. Dessert was also really good – I had sticky rice and mango and Kuniko had fried bananas with ice cream and honey. Once again, back to the hotel with full stomachs.

Thailand – Day 3

The next day we were able sleep through without any noisy sexual activities next door, and so we slept in quite a bit. In the morning we had breakfast at the hotel and then hit the road to check things out. Bangkok is a busy, busy town full of people from all over the world. Unlike Hanoi with mostly locals, Bangkok is well-traveled and it shows. With all that tourism comes all the beggars, salespeople, etc. and part of walking around is avoiding trouble and the troublesome. We didn’t have many problems during our trip, and we spent most of the time on the street taking in the mish-mash of culture visible on every street corner. The food was delicious and available everywhere. We did a good job of eating only Thai and Malaysian food for the entire trip – despite being tempted by burger joints and Mexican food restaurants.

We made reservations with a Japanese travel company for a day trip on a later date, and then took the Sky Train downtown to look at the shopping centers and get some chow. The train was pretty convenient, and although it wasn’t as clean and timely as Japanese trains it made it a lot easier to get around. Downtown we had massages at a small place in a shopping emporium, and then lunch at a huge food court that served food from all over the world, cooked right in front of you. We stuck with the traditional Thai curries and noodles, but there were plenty of options if you wanted to do a little culinary exploring.

We ended the night at the somewhat touristy Singha beer garden near our hotel and some late night shopping. As usual we were eating and drinking everything in sight, and doing just enough walking around to stay functional.

Thailand – Day 2

We had an early morning wake up call when the sounds of wild sex were heard clearly in the next room at about 4 a.m. I had no idea the walls were so thin, but this woman was really screaming it out, and after an hour break they were at it again at 5 a.m. We finally got back to sleep about 5:30, and then we were back up at 7 to go downstairs and meet Mr. Takeda.

Mr. Takeda is one of my ex-students from teaching at Mitsuboshi Belt in Kobe. He was transferred to Thailand with his family about a year ago, and now he lives about two hours away from Bangkok and is doing his best raising a family in a foreign country. It had been a long time since I had seen him, and it was good to see his cheerful face in our hotel lobby when we went downstairs. He had a driver assigned to him from the company, and the driver drove all three of us back to his home in Sriracha. There we met his wife and two kids, Nao-chan and Yuichiro-kun. The kids were full of energy, and his wife looked eager to show us around their town.

The day was filled with all kinds of activities – we saw the Sanctuary of Truth – a gigantic wooden temple being built as half tourist attraction half religious gathering place. We rode elephants, got a foot massage, rode in a speedboat, ate two delicious meals, went shopping, floating through a shopping village on a boat, rode a zipline across water, and ended with a fantastic dinner at a restaurant near their home. It was really fun to play with the kids and it felt like we saw a lot in just one day. Unfortunately they took advantage of the language barrier to pay for almost everything, so we ended up following along and trying to pay for stuff. After one year in Thailand they spoke pretty good Thai, while we were limited to hello, thank you, and delicious.

They had their driver drive us back to Bangkok, and we gave him a big tip when he delivered us safely to our hotel 90 minutes later. It was a great day, and it made all the difference having someone you know in the area.