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Bryan

Video Upgrade

Watching movies in our household has always been a little complicated. Thanks to the greedy bastards who designed the DVD format we are restricted to only watching DVDs that are sold in Japan, and unfortunately they are way overpriced here (a typical DVD is about U.S. $30-40). Since I have a significant collection of DVDs from the USA, a couple of years ago I managed to find an off-brand DVD player here in Japan that accepted a secret code entered into the remote control (found via the internet) that allowed access to all our movies without any restrictions. These region-free players are hard to find in Japan, mainly because the big electronics makers here are also involved with the selling and marketing of DVDs, so it is in their interest to prevent people from buying cheaper stuff overseas and using it here.

All these restrictions made it tricky to watch movies that we already own, but with the region-free player everything was simplified. Recently I found a blu-ray player that had a lot of great features and a low price tag, so we took the blu-ray plunge.

Blu-ray has been fairly popular here in Japan as a recording format for quite a while. For the last few years the only way to buy a blu-ray machine (other than a PS3) was to buy a blu-ray recorder (and those were way too expensive). Now stand-alone blu-ray players are starting to show up, and the one we got was just under 20,000 yen (about $200). Out of the box the player handled our Japanese DVDs just fine. Then I downloaded some sneaky code off the internet and burned it to a CD, and once I inserted it into the player it became region-free as well.

The bad news is that the blu-ray playback remains region-restricted as nobody as found a way around that yet, but the good news is that for blu-ray Japan and the USA are in the same region, so we shouldn’t have any problems playing discs from either country (although I have yet to test it).

The player also has a USB port so I can put the TV shows that I download via bittorrent on a memory stick and watch them on the big plasma screen in the living room – that’s a big plus. Anyway, so far so good, but I’ve got to get my hands on some blu-ray discs from both the USA and Japan to test ’em out.

Gorgeous Weather

We had a nice dinner over at Yamaji-san’s place last night. They put together a whole selection of fish, and we rolled our own sushi while drinking beer and talking. In comparison to the last party this one was a little less formal (which is a good thing) and everyone seemed to relax and have a good time. Kuniko and I decided that we must host a cocktail party or a BBQ sometime soon for them and the other neighbors at the party, Fukumi-san.

Partly as a result of too many bourbon-and-sodas we ended up sleeping in. The windows were open all night and for the first time in a long time we could sleep without air conditioning. I woke up feeling a little more refreshed than usual, and the morning weather helped out, too. The temperature was a little lower today, less humidity, and just breezes, blue skies and a couple of big clouds passing now and then. Kuniko and I walked from Okubo to Akashi (about a two hour walk) and soaked in the weather and tried to burn off the alcohol calories from last night before we go at it again tonight with another sushi party, this time at a restaurant. We’re celebrating Kuniko’s mom’s birthday, so we’ll take them out for 100 yen conveyor belt sushi.

This week I’ve got only a couple of obligations, so I’m going to try to cram in as much fun as I can before starting the new job on September first. It looks like the weather will cooperate, and I should be able to get outdoors and enjoy the weather a lot more.

Last Day In Beijing

Once again we had an early wake up call, and we dragged ourselves downstairs to eat some breakfast in the hotel restaurant. This time we had a little more variety of foods both eastern and western, and after a fairly small meal we checked out of the hotel and went outside to throw our bags on the bus. We were the first people out there and while we waited for the others we listened with the driver to what sounded like a Chinese radio drama. I wish I could have understood what was going on, but from the sound effects alone we were in suspense. The driver saw us engrossed in the drama and gave us a silly grin.

First stop for us was the “final” shopping stop of the trip, and it was a building with signs on the outside declaring it the “Hehe Cultural Center”. Kuniko and I laughed at the name, as “hehe” sounds exactly like the noise you might make while screwing over a bunch of tourists. Inside they set us up inside a classroom and tried to get us to buy colored pearls. After ten minutes of pearls they let us loose in a big shop with plenty of cheesy souvenirs. One boy that was part of our group accidentally broke a small glass statue of an animal, and of course they were all over mom and dad making sure they paid “full price” for it. I felt bad for the kid, who despite his young age seemed to fully appreciate what had happened.

Once Shin got us all out of the shop we were off to Tienanmen Square for some sightseeing. Only in terms of scale the sights were spectacular, and when you factor in all the culture and history that goes along with it the square was very impressive. We walked with thousands of other people through the gigantic square. Vendors were everywhere selling various goods and offering to take your picture (for a small fee), and it would have been very easy to get lost in all the people. Shin expertly guided us to the highlights and explained some of the history behind the square, and then led us under a subway tunnel and into the Forbidden Palace.

The palace was actually a series of gates, and each time we walked through a gate we were presented with a large courtyard. The courtyard got bigger and more impressive with each successive gate. It took nearly two hours to walk through all the gates and courtyards, and the temperature was just getting hotter and hotter. The deeper inside the palace the more dramatic the entries, and it was really worth the long walk in the heat to see what lay around the next corner. Deep inside the palace we found the royal gardens, and if there hadn’t have been thousands of people milling around in there it might have been relaxing.

Eventually we finished the palace, and then walked a short ways to our bus, and the final bus ride to the airport. Shin took a moment to try to sell us some photo books – his assistant had been photographing each of the members of our group throughout the trip, and they wanted about 800 yen for three or four pictures of us in various famous places. The pictures of us weren’t that great, however, and just the principle of the whole thing had us refusing to buy them. The assistant took the pictures back without even looking at us. Sorry!

Finally, as we neared the airport Shin gave us a very nice farewell speech. He thanked all of us for traveling with him, and he hoped that we really enjoyed our stay. It was a really nice thing to say, and I think it softened a lot of hearts on the bus. But Shin wasn’t finished, and as soon as we finished our applause for his speech he was trying to sell us more photobooks from Tienanmen Square. Maybe he knows his business and the hard sell works for him, but I couldn’t help but wonder if he was a lot nicer and less money-oriented early on he might have had more sales overall. Who knows?

As the bus neared the airport Shin make a short speech saying that his assistant is studying Japanese at school and needed money for books and tuition, and asked for any help we could give them. So it was at the end that they were reduced to outright begging for cash. Ick.

At the airport we grabbed our stuff and checked in at the counter, and then Shin said goodbye to each group personally. He didn’t really even make eye contact with us, just pointed us in the direction of the departure gate. We didn’t mind – while he may not have enjoyed our company I imagine our tour would have been much less entertaining without him around.

Once we left Shin we could explore the airport a little more. Of all the places to eat at Beijing airport we decided to eat at Burger King – another chain that hasn’t made it to Kansai yet. We bumped into other members of our group now and then, and everyone said good luck and farewell. There was a real sense of camaraderie among us, and that kind of surprised me – something I didn’t expect in a package tour.

It was just two hours back to Osaka, and then we rode the bus back to Kobe from there. We were glad to be back in Japan, but it was like we hadn’t really left – the trip was so short and action-packed.

So from the descriptions on this blog you might get the idea that we didn’t enjoy the trip, or that it was a constant battle against hard-sell tactics, but in fact we had a great time. The whole point of the trip was to get a taste of China, and to try out a tour package. I think if/when we go back we can certainly handle it on our own, and hopefully we’ll be back soon (within a year if my visa is to be used again). We saw an incredible amount of interesting things for an amazingly small amount of money, and so keeping that in mind made it far more easy to overlook the occasional greed and pressure tactics. Next time, though, it is on our own.

Second Day In China

The next morning we woke early and went downstairs to claim our hotel breakfast. I wasn’t too enthused about eating breakfast in a hotel – I’d have rather gone out to some kind of local place, but time was limited and we had already paid for it in the price of the tour.

Despite the feeling that there were only a few guests at the hotel there were quite a few foreign guests at breakfast. It looked like two other groups besides ours were eating there – a group of older English people and a group of middle-aged Americans. Kuniko and I found a table and looked through the buffet, and luckily they had a Chinese buffet and a western buffet. I hit the Chinese buffet and stocked up on all kinds of interesting foods, mainly noodle-based. The noodles were pan fried with hot peppers, so they were nice and spicy for a morning wake up. There were plenty of new things to try without going to the western table for omelets, bacon, potatoes and the like.

The staff of the hotel wandered around collecting used plates and dishes, and they gave me some interesting looks as Kuniko and I were eating with chopsticks, while the rest of the groups ate western food with forks and knives. When in Rome, you know…

We were picked up soon enough by Shin and whisked off to the other hotel to get the rest of the guests. Shin gave us a quick morning pep talk and then we set out for the Great wall, about 90 minutes outside of Beijing. Of course, we had to stop midway for another “shopping stop” at a silk factory in the middle of nowhere. Just as before we were led inside and given a short presentation on how silk was made, and what made it such a great product to take home as a souvenir.

Again, we were rolling our eyes and wandering around instead of listening to the presentation, and this time it wasn’t just Kuniko and me. More people joined in and I think Shin was starting to identify us as a possible disrupting influence. However, this time there were several buyers of silk sheets in our group (just $200, please don’t wash them in water) and after passing through an impressive showroom of cheesy silk outfits we were back on the road.

Once we hit the mountains north of Beijing things started to get more interesting. Every now and then you could catch a glimpse of the wall on the top of a hillside somewhere, and traffic got slightly thicker as more and more tourists converged. Luckily the wall is long enough that the tourist destinations can be split up and that helps with the crowds. Summer is the peak season, and there were still lots of people there.

As we pulled the bus into the area we hit a gridlock of cars and buses going the same way. Shin did some quick thinking and got us out of the bus and walking, and we were able to get there much quicker. It was quite hot by that time, and because of the walk I think some people were a little less determined to climb to the highest point in the wall. For us this was almost the entire point of the trip, so we were chomping at the bit as we waited near the entrance for Shin to count everyone and then go in.

At the bottom of the wall Shin directed us to stand together for a group photo, and while he kept the rest of the group there explaining how to buy the photo from him, Kuniko and I snuck away and started climbing.

The Great Wall was awesome. We were on a section that was partially restored and so it was pretty easy to imagine the history as we climbed. We took the steeper of the two directions because there were far less people on it, and some of the steepest sections almost had us climbing with our hands and our feet. It took about 20 minutes of hard climbing to reach the uppermost section – kind of tower overlooking two valleys – but from there you could see the wall continuing off into the horizon, climbing over hills into the distance.

Kuniko and I were properly impressed, and this experience made up for all the cheesiness we had to endure both before and after. We stood together at the top and took in everything, with people walking by now and then. Eventually after soaking it all in, we headed back down, passing some of our group starting up the incline.

Shin had us wait for the other members in a special air conditioned room, but the walls were lined with cheesy souvenirs and a Chinese saleswoman tried to get us to buy stuff while we waited. Always looking for an opportunity. We went outside to wait without the sales pressure, and eventually we all got back together and headed to the bus. Kuniko and I tried to buy a soda, but they didn’t have price tags and when we asked they tried to overcharge us again. We didn’t buy a soda at that time (really just on principle) but it wasn’t that expensive compared to Japan.

Back on the bus we headed to lunch. Since it was a bit of drive Shin spent the time trying to get us to buy little Chinese candies as souvenirs. He and his assistant passed out free tasters, and then followed up with a brochure. The prices were typical for souvenirs from Japan, but seemed quite high for China. Still, many of our group bought some from Shin. I wondered how much of these sales our tour company actually knew about.

Lunch turned out to be pretty good. It was held at a huge tourist stop with a banquet hall the size of an American football field. Upstairs was lunch and downstairs was tables and tables of cheesy souvenirs (again). We had an all-you-can-eat dim sum lunch. Everything was tasty and I ate a lot, thanks to our exertions climbing the wall. The staff gave each table two free small bottles of liquor to drink with our meal, and at almost 56% alcohol it was pretty hardcore. The glasses they gave us to drink it with were tiny even by Japanese standards, but that was probably for the best.

After lunch we headed back to the bus, and Shin’s assistant walked behind us picking up the half-full liquor bottles off the table and slipping them into her purse. Nice move! We took the bus the rest of the way into the city, and then stopped in at our last “shopping stop” of the day, a tea factory. Actually, this one turned out to be much more interesting and interactive. We sat around a table and a lady introduced some of there teas by making them for us, and then passing around both the tea leaves and the finished tea to try. We had fun there tasting all the teas and learning a little about how they make them, and we actually ended up buying some as a souvenir. I think Shin was relieved to finally see us buy something.

Next stop was dinner – Peking duck. We stopped in front of a small restaurant in the heart of town, and everyone in our group stopped and exclaimed how lucky we were to be eating at this particular restaurant. As our tour group members lined up to have their picture taken in front of the restaurant, Kuniko explained to me that this place was very famous within Japan, and considered the best restaurant in China for Peking duck. In Japan Peking duck is considered a top delicacy of China, so I could start to understand everyone’s excitement. I took a picture of the outside, too, and then we followed Shin inside.

As we walked as a group through the restaurant we took a couple of turns and suddenly we walked right out a back doorway and around a corner. There we went inside another building completely detached from the original restaurant, and sat down at some tables laid for us. Kuniko and I grinned at each other and wondered where exactly we were eating. The only sign of the famous restaurant was that we had their logo on our paper napkins; other than that we could have been at any Chinese restaurant in China. Who knows if we were really eating at this famous restaurant or not.

The food was excellent, however, and the Peking duck was tasty as well. We ate with some different members of the group and they seemed nice enough, although they mainly kept the conversation to themselves. This time we knew enough not to order beer at the table, and instead decided to pick some up on our own later.

After dinner the bus took some people to their next evening of purchased-from-Shin entertainment, but we skipped that and headed back to our hotel. Shin again insisted that there was nothing near our hotel, so we’d be better off enjoying the Peking Circus. No thanks!

Once we had dropped off our backpacks and gear in our room we headed back down and outside into the streets around our hotel. This was what Shin had been trying to prevent us from doing the whole trip, and we were both looking forward to exploring. Less than two blocks from our hotel there was a small supermarket, and that’s where we got started having some real fun.

Anytime we go abroad Kuniko and I have the most fun in the local supermarkets. You can find all kinds of interesting things, and these are the things that locals eat and use in their daily lives. Not the tacky colorful toothpick holders, but the real stuff. We spent almost an hour shopping in the small store. We found that beer was actually only 2 yuan a bottle (rather than the 30 that they charged in restaurants), drinks and bottled water were even less (Shin charged only triple on the bus for water). We stocked up on items for omiyage, including many of the same candies that they had tried to sell us. It felt like we were stealing sometimes because the prices were so low.

While we shopped now and then locals would watch us buying up the store with some amusement. A cute little boy came over and smiled at us, and even some of the clerks came by to see what things would interest us. I could barely carry the basket so we decided to cash out and head back to the hotel to drop stuff off. The big basket of goodies completely covered all our omiyage needs, plus lots of fun stuff to party with that evening (cheap beer and mysterious yogurt in clay pots). Everything worked out to about 1500 yen, or about $15. Yes!

We lugged the bags of groceries back to the hotel, and as we brought them back in we walked right past some of our tour group who were loitering around the lobby. I lifted the bag and smiled at them, pointing outside, and they just gave me a dazed look. Back up in our room we organized our omiyage, drank a cold beer, and relaxed. It wasn’t long before we decided that the supermarket was too good to pass up, and so we went back down again and shopped another round. This time we bought much less, but it was so much fun to shop with impunity.

On the way back I decided to stop in at a small street restaurant, since it was probably our only chance to eat local during the trip. Probably a restaurant a block away from a tourist hotel is not exactly eating local, but it was much better than the touristy food we had so far. They even had a yakitori, and so we ate some BBQ pork (after double checking for the dog kanji to make sure we didn’t accidentally eat a puppy). We also had some ja-ja men – thick, flat noodles with sliced cucumbers and a spicy miso meat sauce.

The waiter even spoke to us in English, and warned us not to buy beer when his boss asked, because it was a rip off. We followed his advice, and the meal was excellent. I could eat there every night and be perfectly satisfied – no famous restaurant walk-throughs required.

Finally we headed back to the hotel room stuffed with food and laden with souvenirs, and after experimenting with a few other goodies we had bought we hit the sack. It was a long but very satisfying day.

First Day in Beijing

We’re back from a few days in China. It was a great trip – we packed in a ton of stuff to see, and had a pretty good experience on our first tour package trip.

On Tuesday morning we dragged our suitcase out to Okubo station in the sweltering heat and humidity, and I was already dripping with sweat at 7 a.m. Luckily once we got on the train we were in air conditioning all the way to Beijing. At the airport we picked up our tickets and checked in our bag, and it was a breeze getting on the plane. The flight was pretty short (just over two hours) so we landed in the early afternoon, and walked through the newly built (and quite beautiful) Beijing airport. Customs and Immigration went smoothly and we met up with our tour guide just outside the gates.

The guide’s name was “Shin”, a Chinese guy who spoke pretty good Japanese. He gathered about 30 people that made up our group, and then led us to a bus. We followed his wrinkled yellow flag along like well trained sheep, and then sat inside the bus and took off for the city center. Beijing was also hot, but I was happy to find out that there was significantly less humidity, and the heat was a lot easier to deal with.

On the bus ride in I was busy taking in the sights. Beijing is an enormous city, and spread out rather than dense. Looking at all the high rise buildings it took me a while to figure out why they seemed strange, and then I realized that there was hardly any advertising anywhere. The ads were limited to some billboards on the side of the road and the storefront names. Everywhere else was clean and empty, and it sure seemed strange to look around and not see billboards and giant neon signs. I guess I’m a little used to the flash and advertising density of Japan.

Shin was busy briefing us on what to expect during the trip, and some of the quirks in his Japanese speech kind of threw me for a while, but eventually I got the hang of understanding his Japanese. He characterized three days of sightseeing in Beijing as being similar to a war, and warned us that we’d be exhausted by the end of it. To some extent he was right, but not in the way that I think he intended at the time.

Our first stop was to get some bottled beverages near an art exhibition that seemed to be near a campus of some sort. The tap water in Beijing is not suitable for drinking (at least, that is what they said) and so we stocked up on a couple of beverages. We then got back on the bus and drove around the Olympic buildings before arriving at our first “shopping stop” near the center of town.

These “shopping stops” were an eye-opening experience for me. These places seemed to be at a bizarre intersection of both Chinese and Japanese culture, and when viewed through a third culture (mine) it made for a fascinating sociological study.

This shopping stop was in a large building filled with shops selling jade sculptures, and as we followed Shin inside we were given small coupons for 20% off of the items within. Shin led us to a table and introduced a Chinese guy who proceeded to make a sales pitch to buy various pieces of jade jewelry. Kuniko and I rolled our eyes and waited in the back of the crowd for the guy to finish, and walked around the showroom. We were stuck until Shin decided to let us get back on the bus, so we walked around for about 20 minutes. Nobody was really buying, but the place was full of Chinese salespeople who spoke enough Japanese to try to push through a sale. The salespeople weren’t really aggressive, though, and soon everyone was just sitting around waiting for Shin to let us roll out. Shin sat over at the snack bar smoking a cigarette and drinking a soda, and when he finished we went back to bus and headed out.

This system has obviously been around a long, long time. The signs everywhere in the shop were in Japanese, and the prices seemed especially high to me. What surprised me most was the scale of the system – it seemed like the whole city block was dedicated to handling tourists in buses. At first I was a little peeved that we were wasting valuable time standing around some shop when we could be exploring a new country, but as Kuniko pointed out later, the all-inclusive price of the trip was dirt-cheap, and this was why. After the first day I learned to see the comedy in these situations, and it became entertaining.

The next stop on the bus was to a part of town that was under development. The long street looked like a much larger version of Main Street USA in Disneyland. The street was full of tourists, but the shops weren’t open yet, and the whole thing was framed by a huge temple and Chinese religious gate that made a big impression. There wasn’t much to do but take a few pictures and take in the size of everything. It was like Japan but on a grander scale – everything was much more spread out.

From there we went to have dinner at a nearby restaurant. Shin had made arrangements for a nabe dinner, and it was almost exactly the same as a shabu-shabu dinner in Japan. As we sat down they asked if we wanted beer, and I went ahead and ordered one. As soon as it arrived the asked for 30 yuan (about six dollars) and so we paid it and wondered how much we were being overcharged. All the food was included in our original price, and the restaurant provided free hot tea as well. While we ate hot nabe soup in a hot restaurant on a hot day in summer I realized that the only thing that was cold in the room was our beer. The lady next to me asked for some cold tea, and was told that it cost extra. Cold dessert was also offered, but that was extra. I marveled at their ingenuity. The rest of the folks at our table sweated heavily, and suffered through the dinner. The food was great, but it would have been even better in winter.

After dinner we boarded the bus and headed back to our hotels. Shin got on the intercom and told us that since there was nothing of interest near our hotels and it was probably dangerous to walk around on our own we should arrange entertainment through him. He offered tickets to some kind of Chinese kabuki style show, as well as scheduling a massage in your room. We went with a massage for Kuniko, but we figured it would be interesting to walk around on our own and see just how dangerous it actually was.

We dropped off about half the bus at the theater for the kabuki show, and then we went to the hotel. By then it was almost time for the massage, so we checked in to a decent-looking hotel, and went up to our room. The room was nice enough, and definitely felt foreign – it had the same vibe as some of the hotels we stayed in during our trip to Vietnam. It was as if the whole thing was empty and deserted the day before you arrived, and it would be empty and deserted again the day after you leave. Hard to explain, but it was comfortable enough.

Soon after we got to our room our doorbell rang, and a Chinese lady came in and went to work on Kuniko. She was really nice, and did a pretty good job. Kuniko fell asleep near the end, so I tipped the lady and sent her back downstairs, and then I joined Kuniko on the bed and crashed right out.

Off To Beijing

We’ve seen rain around here almost constantly for the past three days, and we’re getting a little sick of it. Today I’m off to teach the last three classes before my mini-vacation starts. I’ll be teaching three hours of classes at Nozaki sensei’s place, and then I’ll come home and finish packing. The weather reports for Beijing are looking good (hot and clear) and so it’ll be nice to get out of this weather for a while.

We’ll be in Beijing for three days or so, and then be back by the weekend here. Updates and pictures when we get back…

A (Long) Job Update

So things have started to pick up on the job front. The product of thrashing around in the job market looking for some full-time employment for the last year has been a couple of realizations.

I want to continue to teach corporate English. My experiences teaching with OTC have been uniformly positive. Compared to teaching at the elementary school level, and junior/senior high schools, business English students show much more motivation, patience, positive learning behaviors, and their deeper life experiences are easier to leverage into good learning opportunities. I love getting to know the students, and I’ve gotten some really positive feedback that has helped me grow as a teacher.

Actually, conventional wisdom in Japan is that the best jobs for teaching English are in the universities. While this may have been the case at some point in the distant past, it seems to me that it is an outdated idea. In fact, I think that things will get worse in that area soon. There are a lot of private colleges in Japan (formed during the economic bubble of the eighties and nineties), and now these institutions are having more and more problems filling classrooms. As the double crunch of a tough economy combined with the problem of a low birth rate in Japan over the last ten years starts to hit these colleges more and more will go under, making the availability of English teaching positions even smaller. Most teaching positions at universities are limited contracts – so even if you got a job at a university you’d need to look for another one in one or two years. That means job insecurity every few years, which is no fun at all. It is a bad situation for foreign teachers, and one that is not likely to change any time soon.

Businesses, however, don’t face exactly the same challenges (at least for the time being), and international businesses are always looking to improve their English skills in order to be more successful in the world marketplace. This demand will only increase in the future as the world becomes smaller. Although it is still hard too get a permanent position at a business, with the right connections and a lot of patience, it is possible.

My challenge has been to get an “in” at one of these companies. Companies like to hire temporary teachers through an agency like OTC because if the teacher is in any way unsatisfactory they can be gone with a phone call – no mess. In contrast if there is a problem with a teacher that has been hired directly by a company they have to figure it out themselves, and often these teachers don’t have very good Japanese skills, and sometimes these situations can get quite uncomfortable for everyone.

So my strategy has been to get to know the decision-makers at these companies while I am there on a contract basis, and eventually try to figure out a way to get directly hired once they see that I am not the typical foreign teacher. Actually, I had made some serious progress in this with a recent job at Mitsubishi – the coordinator requested me as the teacher specifically, and told the salesman that if they couldn’t get me as the teacher, they wouldn’t hold the class. During this class I’ve gotten to know the coordinator even more, and we’ve worked really well together. I was trying to figure out when the best time might be to float the idea of working there in the future, when something quite unexpected happened.

The other day OTC sent me a message and asked if I would be interested in working full time at Kawasaki Heavy Industries in Kobe. It is a six month contract, and they felt that I was the right guy for the job. After some negotiation and discussions we worked out the details, and so I’m going to start working there September 1. This was a good move for a lot of reasons, but I was a little bummed out that I won’t be available for Mitsubishi in the future.

The pay is solid, I was able to easily get time off in October to host my parents when they come to Japan to visit, and they will work around my schedule at the end of the year when I’m teaching at Kobe University. The six month contract is renewable if they are interested in continuing the course, and the OTC people said they expect it to continue at least another couple of years.

My mission: first, get the contract renewed by working my ass off to make a good impression, and then maybe down the road try to figure out a way to get on staff directly. I don’t know how possible it is (I haven’t even met the folks at this location yet), but it looks like I’ll have plenty of time to make friends and influence people.

Yesterday I wrapped up my last class at Mitsubishi, and the OTC guy there told the coordinator that I wouldn’t be available for more classes in the future because of this new job. She was so disappointed – she looked almost shocked. She said that she was hoping to have me teach more classes in the future, but she understood the attraction of a full time job. If things don’t work out at Kawasaki, I might just knock on her door again down the line.

So, between now and September first when I start full time work again I’ve got a two week gap in my schedule. In the next twenty days I only have the final two classes at Kawasaki in Akashi, a training session in Osaka, and one day of classes for Nozaki sensei. Even when you take out the time in China that leaves about 16 days with nothing in them. Any ideas?

Wasn’t Expecting That

Yesterday I was working over at Nozaki sensei’s house, getting ready to teach two classes of kids. All this week I’ve been over there in the afternoons, teaching many of the kids I taught several years ago, and I’ve really enjoyed seeing them growing fast both in height and in behavior. Some students that I was almost dreading came in yesterday and were some of the best behaved students of the bunch.

While I was preparing for lessons yesterday the doorbell rang, and I could see from the window that it was some religious visitors. Usually I play dumb at the door when they come around, and so I got up and headed to the front of the house to put on my “I don’t know no Japanese” act. I opened the door and a stunningly beautiful woman looked up from rummaging in her purse and began to start her prepared remarks. We both suddenly stopped out of surprise. She clearly wasn’t expecting a foreigner to open the door, and I wasn’t expecting this gorgeous woman to appear at the door. I recovered first and said hello in English, and the lady recovered soon after and said hello in Japanese. I noticed that she was accompanied by an older man with a big smile, but he was standing back as if he was in a supporting role only.

The lady evidently decided the situation wasn’t going to work out how she imagined it, and so she stammered that she’d come back later, and retreated to their car. I smiled and waved goodbye, and then went back inside to finish getting ready.

About five minutes later the doorbell rang again, and again I could see the same car and same pair of people waiting outside. I opened the door again, and the lady gave me a bright smile and said that she came to give me some literature and read me a passage from the bible. I gave her a bright smile back and said “sure”. Besotted by her beauty, and emboldened by the fact that I didn’t live there, I was more than happy to listen to whatever she said. For all I knew, Nozaki sensei had asked them to come back sometime and give her the pamphlets. After she finished reading me the bible verse she handed over some papers, and asked me in Japanese if I read the bible. I replied honestly that I didn’t really read it much, and she smiled and said goodbye.

Back in the house I put aside the tracts for Nozaki sensei. What a cunning move – sending around her around to convert people. The only religious folks that show up at my house are old ladies dressed in their Sunday best ready to chat the afternoon away. In an odd way it made my afternoon, and as such it obliged me to write about it here.

Inside The Ramen Truck

Last night I met Kuniko at the station after work. She had gone out for drinks with the usual group of her coworkers. It is kind of like a stress relief group – when somebody has an especially bad day they meet up in like an alcohol-fueled support session. I think Japanese teachers have one of the most stressful jobs in Japan.

So I met Kuniko at the station and she was primed for some drunken shopping. The Lawson convenience store right next to the station is good for this purpose, since it is filled with seasonal and temporary items to try out. We got a few items of junk food, and the clerk (who knows us well) just smiled and filled up our bag for us. He’s always trying to sneak in extra items because he likes us, but I live in fear that it will get him fired someday.

On the walk from the station to home we heard a familiar noise – kind of a bugle call playing from a recording. And as luck would have it, we stumbled across a ramen truck. Ramen trucks are a lot like ice cream trucks in that they travel all over and play loud noises to attract customers, but of course the clientelle are completely different.

I’ve heard this particular ramen truck before, but every time I run out to find it, it is gone. This time there was no escape – we ran up and waved him down. The truck was much larger than I expected, and it turns out that it is a converted camper/small bus. The guy stopped the bus right in the middle of the street so We could get into the bus and sit down at a booth inside. We ordered up a couple of bowls of noodles, and the guy moved to the back of the bus and boiled the noodles and started assembling the meal. Outside the sound of the bugle still played loudly, and all around us cars, pedestrians and residents looked out the windows, snapped pictures, and stopped whatever they were doing to check out what was going on. This ramen truck was unique in that you can actually get inside and eat, and so it got a lot of attention. The owner seemed oblivious of the traffic problems he was causing, and didn’t seem to worry about bothering the neighbors. In his case this attention had the potential for drumming up business, and while we were finishing our noodles a lady came running up with a tray and ordered three bowls to go.

We drank a beer with our noodles and talked with the owner a little bit. He has a set route, based on his experience of where and when business will be. Mostly he tries to be where the drunk people are, so the evenings have him patrolling the train stations all over Akashi city and Kakogawa. It sounded like he only comes to Okubo once or twice a week, so it explains why it is hard to track him down. He gave us his card, though, and said if we want he’d be happy to drive anywhere to serve us noodles.

I’ve been here six years and this was my first time eating ramen inside a mobile restaurant. I didn’t even know this was on my list but I guess I can cross it off now.

Late Parties and Amazing Dinners

It has been a busy week around here. My Mitsubishi course is wrapping up, and the paperwork and time involved in planning the final lessons really took up quite a bit more time than I expected. We also have been having a little bit of a social weekend, with a house party for some of Kuniko’s coworkers that ended up kind of wild, and an extraordinary dinner at Inoguchi sensei’s house in Miki.

As for the party – we had it in two waves, since the first group of teachers were able to come early, and the second group couldn’t make it until later. We created a variety of Italian foods to serve, thanks largely in part to our recent visit to Costco in Amagasaki. I grilled a giant beef roast that turned out well, and everybody kept eating and drinking until late at night. Several teachers missed the last train, and so we had some unexpected houseguests that night. It was a lot of fun, but we were pretty tired out after the event.

Friday night Kuniko and I met up after work and took a train to visit Inoguchi sensei and his wife in Miki. For the first time I had a chance to walk from Kobe station to Shinkaichi station – completely underground. It is about a twenty minute walk, and was entirely fascinating, even to a Japanese vet like me. The underground passage was full of small bargain shops, a huge ping pong parlor, a bookstore specializing in old Japanese books, and countless shops, both open for business and shuttered for good. The art work and murals throughout the place were loud and sometimes bordering on tasteless, so that added even more to the flavor. There was a section of food places that looked really interesting – it was the kind of place where you could find a favorite tacky restaurant or local watering hole.

After catching a train out of Shinkaichi station we rode for about 40 minutes north, and then caught a taxi that Inoguchi sensei had arranged to pick us up. His house was close to the station, so we arrived in no time. It was the first time to see their house since they built it, and it was really nice. The layout was efficient and the decorations elegant – a reflection of their time spent traveling the world.

We relaxed for a little while until it was time for dinner. Inoguchi sensei got us started with some appetizers while he worked in the kitchen. It wasn’t the kind of dinner where we sat and talked around the table, but where he created the dishes in the kitchen and then introduced then upon presentation. Kuniko and I sat at the table with our mouths hanging open in surprise as each new dish made a dramatic entrance. Soon after the first dishes appeared Inoguchi sensei’s wife made it back home from an unexpectedly late night at work, and joined us in trying to eat all the food.

One of Inoguchi sensei’s favorite destinations is Singapore, and the dishes of the evening were based mainly on his experiences eating the Chinese food popular in Singapore. While I’ve eaten Americanized Chinese food and Japanized Chinese food this was something completely different.

It would take a complete blog post just to describe the dinner, and I found myself without a camera and without notes, so I’ll quickly give the highlights. One of the appetizers had “century eggs” and it was my first time eating them. There was a seafood soup filled with sea cucumber and abalone, a gelatinous dish with chicken floating in suspension that tasted great with a fermented soybean/mayo/mustard sauce. Other highlights included a sweet and sour dish with sea bream, stir fried Chinese mushrooms and chicken, an excellent beef and broccoli dish, and my personal favorite, sections cut out of a winter squash and stuffed with meat and scallops. Dessert was ice cold coconut milk with sweetened figs as a topping.

It was clear that Inoguchi sensei put a lot of time and effort into the planning and execution of this dinner, and we really were amazed at how good everything was. It was one of those dining experiences you’ll never forget. Now I’ll feel bad if the next time they come over I just throw some burgers on the grill…

Today we were supposed to have some houseguests, but because Tomomi’s baby was a little sick they decided to postpone to some other time. Kuniko and I are using the time to relax and take care of some errands at home. We’ll watch a few DVDs and just chill tonight. Tomorrow is also a day off – that’s good news as well.

Not Your Usual Italian Place

Yesterday was the fourth anniversary of our “paper” wedding in Akashi. We decided to try something new and have dinner in Akashi to celebrate. We had both heard about a particularly delicious Italian restaurant in Akashi, so Kuniko did some research and made a reservation.

Reservations aren’t quite so simple – the earliest they take reservations is one week in advance, and it is a very small place so it fills up fast. Luckily we got a table, and so after work we met in Akashi and walked to the south. I was surprised that the restaurant was right on the water, on the second floor of a huge apartment building. There were other interesting-looking bars and restaurants next door, and it looked like a fun place to come back in the future. The place had a beautiful view of the ocean and the Akashi bridge, and once in a while the ferry to Awaji island would steam by.

As for the restaurant itself, it turned out to be quite good. They had a big wine list of all Italian wines (we had a nebbiolo) and the menu seemed to be pretty authentic. We had heard that the pizzas were excellent, and walking in you could get a good view of the old fashioned pizza oven – it was really cool. Our seat was in the back of the restaurant next to a glass case filled with what appeared to be homemade Italian dishes – kind of like a deli case full of different mysterious foods.

Besides a pizza we ordered a plate of antipasto, and the way it worked was that we picked whatever we wanted, and they squeezed it on the plate for us. We picked out a few things that looked really good, and left the rest for the waiter to choose. He brought back the plate heaping with foods, and we had a chance to try everything at our own pace while sipping wine. The food was unlike any other Italian food I’ve had in Japan – it was pretty close to authentic, and was styled more towards Italian countryside than your traditional pasta/pizza/meat dishes. They had lots of those too, but the antipasto was really unique, and every bite was different and interesting.

When the pizza arrived it was pretty damn good, too. More like real Italian than American or Japanese pizzas, the toppings were simple and flavorful. The crust was excellent, and our pizza had a lot of buffalo milk mozzarella that really hit the spot. Dangerously good pizza – made me wish I had room for another.

I ordered a couple of ice creams for dessert, but they turned out to be huge, and we barely killed them off. Delicious, but huge. We finally gave our complements to the owner and headed out – but I’m sure we’ll be back soon.

You Have A Problem With Free Bread?

One of the old ladies that lives in my neighborhood, Ohori-san, has been nice enough to give us a loaf of bread now and then. Like many older people in Japan she has her groceries delivered to her home since she isn’t able to get around well. She does like to chat with me in a 90% Japanese/10% English mix and a while back she gave us a big loaf of bread to say thanks for chatting with her.

This is a serious loaf of bread, too. It comes from one of the department stores in Takarazuka, and probably costs her $10 a loaf. They are really good, and we ended up cutting the first loaf into slices and then freezing it, pulling out pieces when we wanted to make toast or sandwiches. There’s no way we could get through the whole loaf without freezing it.

A couple of weeks back she dropped by and gave us another loaf of bread, and we responded by dropping off some homemade Japanese sweets. Yesterday afternoon I got a phone call from her saying that her grocery order came in, and she’s headed my way with some more bread. I told her we hadn’t finished the last loaf yet, and she said, “So you don’t like the bread?” Oh, great. Sure, we like it, but it appears now she is ordering a loaf of bread for us every time she orders groceries.

I went over and picked up the bread before she could shuffle all the way over to our house, and she was very happy that I accepted the bread. There’s really not much we can do but give her a return present, and hope she doesn’t keep up with the bread. It’s one of those vicious present cycles that are easy to get caught up in living in Japan. Even Japanese people have these kinds of social problems, and I’m really at a disadvantage because of the different social customs that I am used to as well as my language disadvantage.

Still, the bread IS tasty.

Nerdspeak, Next Week

Today I got the air conditioner sorted out. It turns out that because of the large change in distance between the internal unit and external unit, there wasn’t enough coolant gas to do the job. At the time of the installation apparently it tested out OK, but as the weather warmed up I guess there wasn’t enough to make the long trip upstairs from the condenser. So we’ll be able to sleep in comfort from here on out.

Also I’m patting myself on the back for coming up with some really good playlists for my home music listening needs. It’s pretty geeky, but now I’ve got my computer choosing what I listen to every day, mixing songs I really like with songs I haven’t heard lately and songs that I haven’t heard at all yet. All this is done by genre, so there is always something interesting waiting for me when I turn on the stereo system.

The hard drive that I bought yesterday is destined for a backup and media server, and the existing hard drive that I’ve been using for the last few years will continue to serve up music for everyday listening. Today I’ve been copying the music over so that there is a backup – it is taking a long time but it’ll be nice to have some peace of mind.

Tomorrow is Friday, and I have an interesting class to look forward to in the morning. My Mitsubishi students will be doing a role play exercise on negotiation. This is the first of three exercises, the final one to be videotaped and used for a reference on their progress in the course. I hope the students show up for class – I think they are a little nervous about it already. Tomorrow’s task is a one-on-one negotiation, and then the next two weeks are working in groups. I really hope they do well.

Once Friday’s class is over I’ll be on an early summer break. All the companies where I teach are closing their factories for a week to cut costs. This is a big deal – a sign of how bad the economy really is here. My students seem at a loss as to what to do with all the extra time they have. Some are going to go to the pachinko parlors all week, while others will stay home and help their wives out with things at home. Still others have no clue what to do, and I may end up going drinking with some of the students since we all have lots of free time. I wish I could figure out a way to charge it to my company, though…

Chinese Embassy, AC Out

Yesterday I headed into Osaka on a day off to see about arranging a visa for our trip to China next month. The nearest consulate was in Osaka, so after a phone call to confirm the details I set out to find the place deep in the heart of the Honmachi area of Osaka.

The place was a lot busier than the Vietnamese embassy – there were lines of people. Most people were Chinese residents of Japan, and there was hardly any Japanese being spoken in the building. Luckily the application form was in English and Japanese, so it was no problem filling it out. They took my passport and paperwork, so I’ll need to go back next week to pick it up and then I should be set.

One kind of sucky thing was that as a US citizen I need to pay a lot for just a tourist visa – it cost 15000 yen, which is about $150. Japanese citizens get in for free, and the most any other nation’s citizens need to pay is 3000 yen. Luckily after talking with the clerk in the embassy I was able to apply for a year-long multiple re-entry visa, so at least I’ll have the chance to get a little more value out of the visa if I visit again. Flights are pretty affordable from Japan, so for the next 12 months it is officially the year of the Dragon for me. Hopefully I’ll enjoy this first visit and be able to go back for more soon enough.

Since I was in Osaka with an open schedule I decided to have lunch at an Indian restaurant nearby, then browse through Yodabashi camera and a monster bookstore near the Hankyu train station. I ended up coming home with a new hard drive for the network, so backups should be more smooth from here on out.

Today I’m stuck at home waiting for the air conditioner guy to come over. When they installed the air conditioning units after we moved everything was working fine, but the other day we turned on the AC unit in the bedroom, and nothing but hot, wet air came out. This is a pretty new machine, so something is definitely wrong. I tried all kinds of troubleshooting tips from the manual, but nothing helped. We’ve got to get it sorted out before the weather heats up even more, otherwise we’ll have to sleep in one of the other air conditioned rooms.

Two Worlds

Last night I headed back to Futami to hit Denya yakitori, my old haunt. It was an easy enough walk to the nearest Sanyo railway station, Nakayagi station. On the way to the station I walked past a large hospital that is probably the nearest to our house – something to remember for the future. Just as I passed the hospital I walked across the path of about forty female college students. I realized from their conversations that they were nursing students working at the hospital for experience.

I decided to take the long way through Futami and followed the old footsteps of my commute to work at Takasago, and even walked by the local shrine where I sometimes get to participate in carrying around the portable shrine and narrowly escaping injury.

As luck would have it one of the regulars from Denya was there drinking alone, so between the master and Toita-san we had a lot to talk about. Toita-san got on the phone and called another regular (nickname = “Crazy Boy”) and we sat and caught up with each other and the master.

The place was semi-busy, with an odd mix of older folks, families, and us middle-aged alcoholics. “Crazy Boy” was talking with an older guy in the corner and his wife, and it turns out that he is one of the Futami “elders” that organize, manage and run the local festival. He called me over, and I was reminded of the movie “The Godfather” as he asked me what I’ve been up to, if I’m going to attend the next festival, and so on. We had a good chat, and then he called over the master and “Crazy Boy” and the had a quick huddle. I was wondering what that was all about, but soon enough it was time to go, and Crazy Boy offered me a ride to the station since his wife was coming to pick him up. While she drove us to the station he explained that the elder wanted me to serve as kind of the matsuri ceremonial leader next year. From what I understood of “Crazy Boy”‘s drunken explanation is that this spot is taken each year by a male that is between 30 and 40, and since I am going to turn 38 this year I guess they think they better hurry up. I’m not sure what the responsibilities are, but it involves dressing up all in white, and that this is an honor that is very rare even for Japanese people. I think these guys just want to shock everyone with a foreign guy, and I’m betting this will work. I’m a little leery of that much exposure, but everyone’s heart seems to be in the right place, so we’ll see what happens. Anyway, this year they’ve already got someone assigned, so I can go to the matsuri and check out what that person’s responsibilities are. As “Crazy Boy” said to me in Japanese, “it’s a great way to pick up chicks”.

Back in Okubo I realized that despite an evening at the yakitori I wasn’t even close to finished for the night, and so I walked down the street to Red Spanky, for a different sort of Japanese culture.

Red Spanky was fairly busy, and so I sat down at the bar between two other people drinking alone, and ordered up a daiquiri and some onion rings. The owner dropped by to say hello, and I had a great conversation with the part time helper who is a movie fanatic like me. The lady on my right must have been working up the courage, because she leaned over and asked me what I was drinking. We struck up a conversation in Japanese, and it turns out that she lives in Okubo. I saw that she had a wedding ring on, so it was a little weird to me to think that she was out at a bar alone. She was pretty drunk, but not out of control. The guy on my left was also really nice to talk to – he is a big snowboarder, and he has been trying to speak English more and more with the other foreigner guy that comes into Red Spanky, Rob. Rob doesn’t speak much Japanese, so I think everyone is more comfortable talking with me, but probably they are learning more talking with Rob.

Since Kuniko is out of town I was there alone, even though often Kuniko will join me there for drinks. I noticed that the bartender didn’t ask about my wife at all while I was sitting next to the lady, and that was the mark of a pro. Eventually it was time to go, and the lady, Kyoko, also said she had to leave, so we left at the same time. All the guys in the place watched us leave together, and as I write this the next day I’m thinking that maybe that was by design. Outside I waved goodbye to Kyoko and headed home.

The evening was interesting to me because of the drastic differences between Denya and Red Spanky – Denya serving the working class in the working class part of town, and Red Spanky taking care of the younger folks in Okubo that aren’t quite ready to go to bed yet. For now I am able to move in both circles, and as a Japanese language learner that is a big plus. I’m lucky to have made lots of friends at both places.