I got up bright and early this morning – at 7 a.m. Kuniko pulled up outside my apartment, and I loaded some gear in her car. Then we hit the road, going southeast.
The weather was cloudy, and while we were driving through Osaka it started pouring. It kept raining all the way through town, and then stopped once we got to Wakayama prefecture. From there, it was about an hour and a half to Shirahama.
Shirahama is a resort town, sitting on the Pacific Ocean. As we drove through town, I was struck by how much it reminded me of San Diego. People were walking the streets in shorts and bikinis, and there were surfboards and boogie boards everywhere. When we got close to the beach, we pulled into a parking area and then ran right out to sit on the beach.
It was pretty crowded, but we had an easy enough time finding a spot, so we sat down and relaxed. After the long drive, it was nice to zone out for a little bit. We walked along the beach, watched the kids playing like maniacs, and went out into the water a bit. The water was really warm – much warmer than my visit to San Diego.
When we had beached it long enough, we headed back to town and walked around for a while. There were lots of shops to look through, and we had lunch at a strange MOS Burger that was kind of a building inside another building.
After lunch we drove along the coast, hitting a few tourist stops along the way. The key to any good tourist spot is parking, and they tried to get you to pay everywhere you went. If you bought omiyage at their stores, then they let you skip the parking fee. There was no way around it short of parking several blocks away, just the cost of doing business in a tourist town. Yuck!
The next stop was the hotel, and turning into the driveway I think Kuniko and I were both a little worried. The road looked pretty lonely, and the entrance to the road was flanked by two dilpidated apartment complexes with flaking paint and an abandoned feel to them. Beyond that we found the entrance to our hotel. As it turned out, we had nothing to worry about.
The hotel was a nice enough place. The place was clean and looked like it was fairly busy. We checked in without a problem, and while they prepared our room we sat at a black laquer table and drank tea and ate taiyaki (a fish shaped pancake stuffed with sweet bean paste). Kuniko was almost asleep when they came over to take us to our room – she had been up all day driving, and I wouldn’t let her fall asleep on the beach for fear of sunburn.
We got to our room, and it was a nice big Japanese style room. The tatami room was about 12 mats big – twice the size of my apartment’s tatami rooms combined. There was a view of the ocean, and a sitting room for tea and crackers. The bathroom had a western toilet (whew!) and a nice big shower/bath combo. Kuniko told the lady that lead us to the room that we were going to take a nap, and I think the lady was a little surprised. She pulled out a futon and laid it out, since we as guests aren’t supposed to do it.
We took a shower, changed into our yukatas – essential ryokan (japanese inn) wear – and went to sleep. We woke up a couple hours later, just in time for the staff to bring us dinner. The style of room that we had picked came with dinner and breakfast in our room, and so we were in for a treat.
As I lay there still half asleep on the futon, our hostess and her assistant brought lots of food and set it out carefully on our table. We watched them set it up, and they watched me to see when I would change from horizontal to vertical position. Once they declared the table ready, we sat down and dug in.
The hostess had given Kuniko lots of directions as to what sauce went with each dish, and even what each dish was. I had no idea on some of them, but Kuniko patiently guided me through it and we had a great dinner. There were so many dishes – more than ten – so we were plenty full by the time dinner was ready. Since we had a view of the ocean, we would break every so often to check on the sunset, and at one point we just pulled up a chair and watched it disappear behind the mountains of Shikoku to the west.
They came to clear our tables, and then about half an hour later it was time to report to our private bath. They have a public bath that anyone can use, but Kuniko had said that it was worth it to get the private one – that way we could bathe together. In the public one they split up the boys and the girls, since everyone is buck-nekkid.
We walked downstairs in our yukatas and were lead to the private bath by the desk clerk. There was a room to change clothes, and the next room had a giant tile bath fed by hot spring water. Next to that was a cooler bath, and in the wall was a small door that lead to a sauna room.
I couldn’t believe how lucky I was to be enjoying a private bath in a foreign country with a beautiful woman, and I took a few minutes to reflect on how amazing that this was even happening. Every day I am in Japan I try to savor moments, and this was one of my favorites.
We sat in the hot bath for a while, then tried out the sauna. The sauna was seriously hot. According to the thermometer inside, which must have been broken, it was 100 degrees C, which is 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Kuniko got right out after about 1 minute, and I managed about two more minutes before I had to get it. It was insanely hot in there.
After about half an hour of bathing we got out and changed back into our clothes, and then went upstairs to our room. Outside they were launching fireworks periodically from the beach – big ones that seemed just a little too low to be safe. Kuniko and I watched to fireworks together for a while, and then went to bed.