Breakfast Almost In Bed, Fish Market, The Master’s New Daughter

We woke up at seven thirty in the morning, and fifteen minutes later the same two ladies that served us dinner the night before were serving us breakfast. They laid out another huge meal, and we ate as much as we could. After a shower we cleared out of the hotel, and they had our car waiting for us when we went outside. What service!

We drove back to town, and found some glass bottom boats that were doing tours. I had always wanted to try one, and so we parked our car and went over there. Like I said before, parking is a big deal, and so we weren’t surprised when an old lady came over to us and sternly told us that we’d have to shop at her store if we planned on parking there. Kuniko explained about the glass bottom boat, and she said that it was OK to park as long as we shopped when we got back. She urged us not to look in the other stores on the walk over – “they have nothing worthwhile”, she said.

We boarded the boat with about ten other people, and looked through some glass tables that gave us a view of the bottom of the sea. They urged us to be on the lookout for a professional diver that was to do a demonstration for us. We pulled up next to an old-fashioned boat, and while we waited patiently, and old woman wrapped in white cloth jumped in the water and did a couple of flips under our boat. Kuniko and I looked at each other and we both said the same thing in English – “cheesy”.

After the lady finished her routine we headed out to see some reefs. The variety of sealife was really amazing – we saw quite a few brightly colored fish, and the kids around us would shout “Nemo!”, “Nemo!” every few minutes.

Our next stop was a fish market that we had passed on the way into town. We stopped in, and it was huge. Kind of like the Costco of fish markets. They had large tanks full of live fish that you could buy and have cut up while you watched. There were many booths that sold all kinds of strange things, and it was fun to see all the options that seafood lovers have. The sushi was cheap there, but it was a little early, so we left with only an ice cream cone.

From there we drove straight back to my place in Futami, and we unloaded our gear there. We were both exhausted, so we took a nap on my new bed, and woke up around 5:00 o’clock. Kuniko drove me to my local JR station, and I still made it to my Japanese class on time.

After class I came home to find a message on my machine from the master of the yakitori. I had forgotten, but he had invited me to swing by the yakitori that night because his wife and daughter were coming in. I rushed down to the yakitori and caught them still there. The baby was beautiful and healthy, and the master’s wife looked like she was full of energy. She playfully asked me if I had a baby yet, and I playfully answered, “まだ“.

After a couple of beers I went home and went to bed. What a long day!

Heading To Shirahama

I got up bright and early this morning – at 7 a.m. Kuniko pulled up outside my apartment, and I loaded some gear in her car. Then we hit the road, going southeast.

The weather was cloudy, and while we were driving through Osaka it started pouring. It kept raining all the way through town, and then stopped once we got to Wakayama prefecture. From there, it was about an hour and a half to Shirahama.

Shirahama is a resort town, sitting on the Pacific Ocean. As we drove through town, I was struck by how much it reminded me of San Diego. People were walking the streets in shorts and bikinis, and there were surfboards and boogie boards everywhere. When we got close to the beach, we pulled into a parking area and then ran right out to sit on the beach.

It was pretty crowded, but we had an easy enough time finding a spot, so we sat down and relaxed. After the long drive, it was nice to zone out for a little bit. We walked along the beach, watched the kids playing like maniacs, and went out into the water a bit. The water was really warm – much warmer than my visit to San Diego.

When we had beached it long enough, we headed back to town and walked around for a while. There were lots of shops to look through, and we had lunch at a strange MOS Burger that was kind of a building inside another building.

After lunch we drove along the coast, hitting a few tourist stops along the way. The key to any good tourist spot is parking, and they tried to get you to pay everywhere you went. If you bought omiyage at their stores, then they let you skip the parking fee. There was no way around it short of parking several blocks away, just the cost of doing business in a tourist town. Yuck!

The next stop was the hotel, and turning into the driveway I think Kuniko and I were both a little worried. The road looked pretty lonely, and the entrance to the road was flanked by two dilpidated apartment complexes with flaking paint and an abandoned feel to them. Beyond that we found the entrance to our hotel. As it turned out, we had nothing to worry about.

The hotel was a nice enough place. The place was clean and looked like it was fairly busy. We checked in without a problem, and while they prepared our room we sat at a black laquer table and drank tea and ate taiyaki (a fish shaped pancake stuffed with sweet bean paste). Kuniko was almost asleep when they came over to take us to our room – she had been up all day driving, and I wouldn’t let her fall asleep on the beach for fear of sunburn.

We got to our room, and it was a nice big Japanese style room. The tatami room was about 12 mats big – twice the size of my apartment’s tatami rooms combined. There was a view of the ocean, and a sitting room for tea and crackers. The bathroom had a western toilet (whew!) and a nice big shower/bath combo. Kuniko told the lady that lead us to the room that we were going to take a nap, and I think the lady was a little surprised. She pulled out a futon and laid it out, since we as guests aren’t supposed to do it.

We took a shower, changed into our yukatas – essential ryokan (japanese inn) wear – and went to sleep. We woke up a couple hours later, just in time for the staff to bring us dinner. The style of room that we had picked came with dinner and breakfast in our room, and so we were in for a treat.

As I lay there still half asleep on the futon, our hostess and her assistant brought lots of food and set it out carefully on our table. We watched them set it up, and they watched me to see when I would change from horizontal to vertical position. Once they declared the table ready, we sat down and dug in.

The hostess had given Kuniko lots of directions as to what sauce went with each dish, and even what each dish was. I had no idea on some of them, but Kuniko patiently guided me through it and we had a great dinner. There were so many dishes – more than ten – so we were plenty full by the time dinner was ready. Since we had a view of the ocean, we would break every so often to check on the sunset, and at one point we just pulled up a chair and watched it disappear behind the mountains of Shikoku to the west.

They came to clear our tables, and then about half an hour later it was time to report to our private bath. They have a public bath that anyone can use, but Kuniko had said that it was worth it to get the private one – that way we could bathe together. In the public one they split up the boys and the girls, since everyone is buck-nekkid.

We walked downstairs in our yukatas and were lead to the private bath by the desk clerk. There was a room to change clothes, and the next room had a giant tile bath fed by hot spring water. Next to that was a cooler bath, and in the wall was a small door that lead to a sauna room.

I couldn’t believe how lucky I was to be enjoying a private bath in a foreign country with a beautiful woman, and I took a few minutes to reflect on how amazing that this was even happening. Every day I am in Japan I try to savor moments, and this was one of my favorites.

We sat in the hot bath for a while, then tried out the sauna. The sauna was seriously hot. According to the thermometer inside, which must have been broken, it was 100 degrees C, which is 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Kuniko got right out after about 1 minute, and I managed about two more minutes before I had to get it. It was insanely hot in there.

After about half an hour of bathing we got out and changed back into our clothes, and then went upstairs to our room. Outside they were launching fireworks periodically from the beach – big ones that seemed just a little too low to be safe. Kuniko and I watched to fireworks together for a while, and then went to bed.

Bed Shopping, Making Plans

This morning Kuniko came over in her car – we had planned to go shopping for a new futon for my place. The one I’ve been using has been around for a long time – I had inherited it from my predecessor, and I’m sure that he had owned it for a long time as well.

Anyway, it had flattened out quite a bit so that it was getting a bit uncomfortable. At Kuniko’s place she has a cool futon that converts into a chair that you can sit in, and it actually serves as her living room couch. I was hoping to get a bigger version of that, and so Kuniko took me to the same store where she bought hers.

They had lots of pillows, futons, blankets, everything you need to get a good night’s sleep. At first I picked up the futon, a double, for about $120. Then I needed some sheets, and then I thought I ought to get a new pillow since mine has been stained yellow with sweat. I got a new gigantic pillow and a new gigantic pillowcase along with it. I also got a couple of floor pillows for guests to sit on when they come over. We lugged all the stuff out to the car and crammed it in there, and then went to my place to unload it.

I set up the bed and it’s huge. It’s really comfortable, and it folds away nicely. The real test will be to see how I sleep on it tonight, but I’m thinking it will be great.

After setting up the bed Kuniko jumped on the computer and looked into making some reservations for us. Kuniko has a couple of days off in a row, so we are hoping to do a small trip. She’s been working so hard that we thought a trip to an onsen (a hot spring) would be a good way to relax. We found one that is within sight of the beach in Shirohama – a place south of Osaka that is famous for it’s white sand (which I hear is imported from Australia). Kuniko managed to get reservations, and so tomorrow we’re leaving early to drive there and check it out.

Since we were going to the beach Kuniko decided she needed a new swimsuit, so we went bikini shopping. It was fun to look around and see all the crazy designs. The trick was to stay busy without looking like a pervert, and definitely keep your eyes moving. I get lots of attention any day, but walking around in the swimsuit section made me a little self-conscious.

After much deliberation Kuniko found one that we both liked, and so with that we headed home. I did a little shopping for some road supplies, and then she dropped me off to go home and cook dinner for her father and brother. I had a light dinner myself of quesadillas, trying to kill off the tortillas before they get weird.

Now I’m hitting the books and doing some reading in Japanese. We’ll be on the road the next two days, so I’ll post when I get back. I should have some great pictures when I return!

Tortillas At Carrefour, An Evening With Jane

Today was Friday, officially Obon, the Japanese time to celebrate with family the memory of dead relatives. For me it meant that I got to leave school even earlier than normal. The vice-principal seemed surprised to see me there, and he told me in a quiet voice in the empty staff room that I could leave at 9:30 because they were waxing the floors. Excellent!

Mr. Hayashi and Ms. Yamamoto came in to study English, and we talked for a bit, and then at 9:30 they kicked us out. Mr. Hayashi gave me a ride to the station, and I was home by 10 a.m.

I spent the day relaxing – I watched Kill Bill Volume 2, studied Japanese, made an easy lunch of salami and Ritz crackers, and then decided to walk over to Carrefour to see what was new there.

Tortillas were new there. Flour tortillas, five bucks for eight of them, and worth it! Before I had been buying them in Kobe for about the same price. I bought one pack to try them and had quesadillas at home. They were delicious. I also bought a bottle of Tsunami beer, brewed in Hawaii, and that turned out to be a pleasant surprise. It has a good hoppy flavor that is hard to find in most beers available in Japan.

After dinner I got a knock on the door from my new upstairs neighbor, Jane. She had just come back from Yashiro and wanted to stop in and say hello. We talked for about an hour in my apartment, and then we walked around the neighborhood. I showed her where the closest grocery store was, and some of the highlights of the town. She followed around making notes on a small homemade map she was creating. No tour would be complete without a stop to visit the yakitori. The master was pretty lonely in there, so I introduced Jane to him and we chatted for a while. Jane really got a kick out of the place and seemed pretty happy that it is so close by.

Now it’s about midnight and I’m back at home and getting ready for bed. Looking forward to a fun weekend!

A Day Full Of Kuniko

Late last night Kuniko came into town on the Sanyo train line, and she spent last night at my apartment. We slept in for a long time – almost until 10 a.m., and then got up to clean up and make breakfast.

Kuniko had been at a dinner the night before, and someone had brought her a tin of Spam for omiyage. She brought it along last night so I made up fried Spam and eggs with toast for breakfast. And it was delicious.

After breakfast we got organized and walked out to Tsuchiyama station in order to go to the movies. It was blazing hot, and I thought we might lose Kuniko on the way over there. We were both a sweaty mess when we arrived at the station, so it was nice to cool down and enjoy the A/C on the way to Okubo.

In Okubo we saw Spiderman 2, since we had some free tickets. I thought it was a fairly good movie – maybe better than the first one in some respects. I’d like to see a little bit less of the love story and a little more action, though.

We went shopping for some groceries after the movie, and took those back to Tsuchiyama with us. At Tsuchiyama we sprang for a cab ride home, which turned out to be a great idea, considering that it was still so hot.

At around 6 o’clock Yasu came over for dinner. For an appetizer we had salami and Camembert cheese on Ritz crackers, and for dinner we cooked up chicken breasts on the BBQ. I used some marinade that Nancy and Lynn had given me, and it had great flavor. We had a good salad along with it – the sesame dressing was awesome!

After Yasu left I walked Kuniko back to the train station at Tsuchiyama. It was good exercise, and since it was so late the heat wasn’t a problem. Now I’m back home getting ready for bed. I’m whupped…

All Over Kansai

Kuniko and I were up fairly early, and we had a quick breakfast of yogurt and juice before I hit the road. Unfortunately, I couldn’t catch one of the speedy “super express” trains – they weren’t running in the morning. I had to make do with an express, which got me home around 8:15 or so.

I walked home in my shorts and T-shirt, and said hello to some old ladies sitting around enjoying the morning. Ten minutes later I walked back the other way in my work clothes going back to the station, and the ladies all were giggling at my change of uniform.

At work things were slow as usual, but the big news was that Mr. Hayashi and the rest of the Australian crew were back today. When I got there Mr. Hayashi was in the principal’s office being debriefed, and soon after he came by to say hello. We got a chance to get caught up and joke around a little bit. I gave him his omiyage, a bottle of Imagery Malbec and a wine opener from my aunt’s winery. He gave me my omiyage, a box of gravy mix.

I’m not one to get all in a snit because of an omiyage gift, but gravy mix? I told him how much I looked forward to making gravy sometime, and thanked him for the omiyage.

Terano sensei also came back with the group, and she got me a leather kangaroo bookmark… it was cute, and we talked about her trip. She seemed to be a little overwhelmed – I don’t think that she had expected to have to speak as much English as she did. According to Mr. Hayashi she stayed mainly with the students, and didn’t venture out too far without being near someone that spoke Japanese. I could tell Mr. Hayashi was not impressed with her English at all.

Mr. Hayashi said that they will do the same trip next year, and he wants me to go along. He’s getting the same hotel room, and he said that there are two twin beds, so I could bunk with him. I think he just wants someone to hang out with when he goes there – I’m not sure if I’m his man or not. We’ll have to see. If I can get the school to pick up my tab I might go, but there are plenty of other destinations that I haven’t visited yet. I gave him a neutral response.

He also seemed to want to get right back into our old hijinks, and told me right off the bat that if I didn’t want to come in the next few days, he’d cover for me. He has to come because he has two judo tournaments. I took advantage and signed up for Thursday off. Kuniko will be in town on Thursday, and we’re hoping to go see Spiderman 2. Excellent!

Meanwhile, I’d been coordinating with Gabe Crawford, a friend of the family from back in Glen Ellen. He has been living in Japan the past year in Kyoto, and we were finally getting a chance to meet up. He named a time and place in Kyoto that afternoon, so I snuck out of work and went to meet him.

I caught the train back to my apartment, walked by the old ladies again who were still there, changed back into some comfortable shorts and a T-shirt, grabbed my backpack, and then walked for a fourth time by the old ladies in another outfit. This time they said something about my clothes, but I couldn’t quite understand. I told them in Japanese that “I can’t decide what to wear today!” but something was lost in the translation – they were laughing already anyway.

Back on the train, change to the super express, and within an hour I was zooming right past Osaka and arriving in Kyoto. In Kyoto station I got on the subway, and three stops up I met with Gabe on a street corner near a restaurant that he thought we might try.

Gabe looked good – he had a cheerful personality and was easy to get along with. We chatted over lunch at an all-you-can traditional style Japanese restaurant. The food was great – lots of tsukemono (pickles, pickled things) and some smoked fish that was tasty. We spent about half an hour over lunch talking about our adventures, and then headed out towards the river.

Gabe is getting ready to return home to America. It was interesting to hear his thoughts about going back, especially since I had just returned from a visit to the U.S.A. myself.

On one of the bridges over the river in Kyoto we had a passerby take our picture, and then we went our separate ways. It was great to see someone from my little hometown of Glen Ellen all the way in Kyoto, Japan.

After leaving Gabe I walked down the river in the direction he pointed me. I don’t know Kyoto very well and was glad that Gabe helped me out – I’d be lost in the mountains by now without him.

The riverside was pleasant and there were people here and there standing in the water cooling off. I wanted to go down myself, but all the access points seemed to have people around, so I just kept walking.

Along the river I saw a bird waiting by a waterfall for fish to jump out of the water and into his beak. I snapped a few pictures – I’m not on staff at National Geographic but it was fun trying to catch a fish in the air. It’s a good thing I have a digital camera – it would have cost me a fortune in film.

I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around southern Kyoto. I stopped in and bought sodas when I was thirsty, I strolled into random temples and even a big one that was being repaired. They had built a giant moveable scaffold around it so they could repair it without putting extra weight on it. Interesting…

After doing a little bit of shopping in the stores underneath the station I jumped on board the next train and headed for the third time today to my apartment in Futami. This time I stayed and relaxed. I had a simple sandwich for dinner, and spent the evening relaxing and resting my feet.

There’s a rumor that Kuniko might be in town tonight, so I may be entertaining later on this evening. Either way, hopefully we’ll be able to get together tomorrow and enjoy a day off together. Friday is Obon, a holiday for the dead in Japan. Kuniko will be with her family, as will most people. I get the impression that she’s not looking forward to the forced family time.

Comics, Costco Again, Oyako Donburi and Chocolat

Even though Kuniko had the day off, she had to sneak into work for about half an hour to take care of some things, so I had the run of her house for a couple of hours. I spent the time watching TV and trying to understand the spoken Japanese, and also reading some comic books that she had purchased.

The comics are semi-non-fiction based on the life of the author, a Japanese woman, who is married to a foreign man living together in Japan. The author, Oguri Saori, does a pretty good job of illustrating the tough parts of being a mixed couple in Japan, and applies a humorous touch to some tough situations.

When Kuniko came back we were both hungry, so we went to Shin-Osaka station to have some lunch. We sat at a small table in a restaurant, and from the moment we sat down people were staring at us. Kuniko and I were chatting in English, which is what we usually do in public because then people can’t understand us very well and it gives us some modicum of privacy. As we were talking, I looked to my right and a lady was staring at me like I was her long lost brother or something. I held her gaze for a while, but she just kept staring. I said “Hello!” in English, and she blinked, but kept staring. It was weird – even Kuniko thought it was out of the ordinary. Anyway, once the food showed up people stared even more, and so it was with a little relief that we got out of there and got on the train to Amagasaki.

What’s in Amagasaki? Costco! Kuniko had never been, and I thought I’d introduce her to this America shopping phenomenon. We walked the aisles, sampling snacks, admiring things, and buying nothing. By the time we left we both had seen things that we wanted, but we decided to pick them up next time. It was a fun experience though, especially to see it through Kuniko’s eyes.

It was plenty hot by then, so we headed back to Kuniko’s place to cool down with some shaved ice and plan our next move. We ended up deciding to have Oyako donburi, a rice dish with chicken (oya, 親, which means parent) and egg (ko, 子, which means child). We went shopping together for the groceries, and then went to rent a movie. We were looking to rent Spiderman, since we are probably going to go see Spiderman 2 soon. Unfortunately, they didn’t have it, so we settled on Kuniko’s favorite movie, Chocolat.

Kuniko cooked up a great meal and we sat down to watch the movie. I had never seen it before, and I was pleasantly surprised. Kuniko even had some chocolate laying around to eat while we watched – perfect. Even though I had school the next day I decided to stay another night in Osaka, since I don’t really have to be at work until late in the morning.

School, YMCA, Shin-Osaka

I cranked myself out of bed at the ungodly hour of 8:30 a.m., and took a nice leisurely breakfast of miso soup, rice, and pineapple juice. I’m really enjoying this abbreviated summer schedule at school, and since nobody is really around to keep track of me, I just wander in and out at will. This time last year I was stuck in Yashiro, so I couldn’t enjoy the freedom and time off that I get for free.

Once I got to school I worked on kanji practice. I reviewed earlier kanji to make sure that I could still write them. Once I learn a kanji I am very good at recognizing it and reading it, but I have trouble sometimes remembering how to write it. More review!

Kuniko had mentioned that had Tuesday off – kind of a reward for her hard work at her school for the last few days. Together we hatched a plan to spend Tuesday together. My plan was to ask for Tuesday off, and if I ask the right person they would just say “don’t worry about it, just take the day and nobody will notice.”

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find that person. Mr. Hayashi is still in Australia, the history teacher was stuck in a seminar, and so I only had a couple of teachers to ask. I ended up settling on Mr. Kimura, but he advised me to take the day off officially. Since I had already asked, that’s what I had to end up doing. I was a little bummed at first, but a day with Kuniko is pretty rare, and it was totally worth it. I wrote a note to the vice-principal telling him that I was taking the time, and I included lots of uncertainty in the note – I’m still hoping that he’ll take pity on me and tear up my request form.

Anyway, I took off around lunch time and went home to relax a bit and study just a bit more. In the evening I went to my Japanese class in Sannomiya, and had an interesting lesson. The students were especially active tonight, so it was a little more fun. I also found some information on continuing the classes after the “free offer” wears off. They are expensive, though, more than $150 a month. I’ll do a little research and look for some cheaper options.

After class I just got on the train going the opposite way, towards Osaka. On the train I met a nice lady that was seriously talkative. She is Japanese but she has been living in Seattle for the last 11 years. Now she’s visiting Japan, but it sounds like she doesn’t like it much. It was nice to talk to her, and she reluctantly let me get off at Kuniko’s stop. Within a few minutes I was knocking on Kuniko’s door.

Making My Brain Earn It’s Keep

I spent most of my day today studying and eating. I had this idea that I’d study all day, but I interspersed my study sessions with some pleasure reading, a walk, some shaved ice, and a nice simple Japanese style dinner.

A highlight of my day was meeting my new neighbor upstairs.

Interesting person. Her name is Jane, and she is from England. She is half Japanese, but speaks no Japanese herself. It’s been a while since I’ve spoken with someone with a thick English accent, stronger than what I was used to from Melanie. She has family that are here to help her move in, a couple of grandparents that don’t speak any English. She must be able to communicate with them, because they seem to be getting along.

We chatted just briefly on the steps. In a couple of days she’ll be off to Yashiro for the concentration camp treatment that I got last year. I didn’t tell her that, though. Best to leave the experience there for her to discover. I gave her a hot tip on the train system, and she’s eager to chat some more and hear what else is around the neighborhood. She asked me an odd question about whether I’m an early riser – but didn’t tie it to any particular reason.

Anyway, she seems nice enough, she’s tiny so she’ll make softer footsteps than Mel did, and I think we’ll be getting along just fine.

For dinner I cooked up a traditional rice and miso soup meal, with a side of kimchee to give it a Korean kick. Excellent!

Now I’m going to do one last review of vocabulary before I go to bed. Tomorrow I’m doing a short day at work, and I’m going to try to get Tuesday off since that will be Kuniko’s first day out of her “prison”, a mandatory live-in at school for the past five days. I’m hoping to go meet her in Osaka after my class in Kobe tomorrow night.

Hiking, Studying, Eating

Saturday morning I got up early – around seven o’clock, and had some granola for breakfast. For some reason I’m getting up early, but gradually I’m sleeping more and more. That’s a good sign.

I talked with my family by phone, and my grandparents are wrapping up their trip to Northern California. It sounds like they had a good visit, and I’m glad that they were able to fly up and spend some time out of the heat and break up their routine.

After breakfast I was eager for some adventure, so despite the heat I put on my hiking gear and walked out of the house looking for some ground to cover. I had earlier considered going to Koya-san, a sacred mountain near Osaka, but the time to get there and back wasn’t in my favor. It would be a rushed trip – instead I’ll try to go when Kuniko is at home – that way I can stay the night in Osaka afterwards and spend more time on the mountain.

My alternative course of action was to catch the JR train to Sone, and hike up to the temple to the west of Takamikura mountain. It was a long hot walk, and the only tricky part of the journey was managing wear to put all the sweat that was pouring off my body. I had brought an old T-shirt to use as a mop rag, and it worked pretty well.

The temple was nicer than I remembered, and I spent time exploring the area, walking through the clouds of smoke from the incense, and reading some of the fortunes that people had left hanging on the walls in the hopes that they would come true. After about 30 minutes of that, I went back along the temple walkway and bought some shaved ice and some rice cakes wrapped in leaves.

On the way home I stopped in for some sushi at my favorite revolving sushi place, and got out of there with a belly full of sushi for 1200 yen (around $12). Once I got home it was a cold shower, and then I spent the afternoon alternating between studying and reading an electronic version of an old Dick Francis novel.

By dinner time I was still full from the sushi, but I had put some meat in a marinade and I needed to cook it. The marinated meat turned out great, and together with the onions and mushrooms over white rice – excellent. I’m going to try to same thing with some chicken breasts next week. I want to try a sweet marinade on the chicken, teriyaki style.

Kuniko called from her school and we chatted for about 20 minutes. She’s going to have a day off on Tuesday, and I’m working to get that day off as well. Not sure what we’re going to do, but I’m probably going to Osaka to see her, since she came to my place last time. She’ll be exhausted from living at school for five straight days, and so we may just rent a movie and relax.

Back To School (For Me)

This morning I went off to work a little later than usual. Yesterday I was ambitious and went off to school early, but I throttled my ambition back a bit and went in around 8:40 in the morning.

School was quiet as usual, but some of the office staff were looking for me. I spent the first hour of my day filling out some forms that they considered high priority stuff, but all it was was an optional change of address form for the JET directory. After that was taken care of I finished off my taxes and mailed them off, and printed some pictures from my trip to show everyone.

The principal and vice-principal called me into the office to talk about more secret work for the prefecture. I had already gotten the information directly from Hasegawa sensei, but I went through the motions with them. One of the days I have to work for the prefecture is a Saturday, so I asked them if I could substitute another day as a holiday, and they said “sure”. I got the impression that if I didn’t ask, they wouldn’t have given it to me. A little piece of information to file away for later.

At around 11:30 I snuck out, ostensibly for lunch, but in reality to go home. Back home I continued cleaning up, had a mind-blowing kimchee and pork sandwich, and worked on household stuff. Before I knew it, it was time to go to Sannomiya for my Japanese class.

It was really nice to get on the train into Kobe and see the city again – I had missed walking through the crowds of urgent people and exchanging looks with curious people. Because I had left early from work I was able to wear comfortable clothes, and my flip-flops that I had bought in Concord are working out great – so comfortable.

At the YMCA my class had only four students in it at first, but after about half an hour, three more came. The class was good, but it’s been a while since I studied. I seem to be good at casual conversations, but when we get to complex grammar points I tend to choke.

After class I caught some dinner at a noodle shop, and then went to the train station to head home. I saw one of my students that had graduated last year in line for the same train. She was standing with a friend, and she recognized me about the same time I recognized her. I smiled and nodded, and she kind of freaked out and talked animatedly with her friend. By my train stop they had figured it all out and both of them waved to me as I got off the train.

I went to bed late, around midnight, with the idea that I’ll sleep in a little bit tomorrow. It’s still hot and humid around here, but I’ve cooled down the bedroom, so it should be pleasant dreams.

Some Shit Hits The Fan

Back to work, man! I woke up refreshed and recharged, and went right out to the train station 15 minutes early. I caught an early train, and went to work with loads of candy and a spring in my step.

The place was almost deserted. There were only two teachers there that looked a little surprised that I was too. As people came in I delivered the omiyage packages, and everyone was so happy to get them! Some teachers that rarely talk to me managed a few words in English, and the principal and vice-principal were both amused and happy.

Mr. Komuri and I had a good reunion, and we joked around for a long time. He suddenly got all serious, and then asked me if I knew what had happened. Turns out two big events happened while I was gone.

The first, and most serious thing that happened, was some guy in Kakogawa flipped out and killed seven people with a knife. The guy was seriously wack-o, and they only caught him because he crashed his car trying to escape from a police car that was going somewhere else. My quiet neighborhood had now become to murder capital of Japan.

The second thing was that they finally published the story on Melanie, my erstwhile neighbor upstairs. Since it’s in the newspaper, everyone now knows that she was busted for accepting a package that contained marijuana. It was on the television news, and in the major papers all across Japan. Since I can’t read Japanese I can only relate what I’ve heard from some other people, but it sounds like she will stay in Japan and face charges, and that she could face anywhere from two to six years in prison. I’m doing some research to find out what’s going on with her case.

Mr. Komuri and I talked about that for quite a while. He said half-jokingly that he was worried that I might be involved, and cautioned me to be careful. I assured him that I would – I’d like to extend my stay in Japan, but I don’t want to live in a jail to do it.

Myself, Mr. Komuri, the history teacher, and Mr. Kimura all went over to the Chinese restaurant for some lunch, and then I went home. Not a long day, but tomorrow I don’t really need to go in so early.

Back home I finished unpacking, did some housecleaning, and then went shopping for a few things to restock my fridge. While at Carrefour I bumped into two French guys, and I put in a request for vintage port. They both gave me a blank look and said that they would look into it. I couldn’t tell if they understood what vintage port was, so I explained it carefully. They doubtfully said that they would try to get it in stock. Not to perpetuate stereotypes, but the French don’t seem to do customer service so well.

Good news – they had some new beers in the beer section, and one of them is Celebrator. I haven’t had this in a long time, so I’ve got it chilling in the fridge. It’s even got the little plastic goat on it!

The guy that checked me out did the whole thing in heavily accented English. I could tell he was really enjoying the chance to use it, so it was nice to help out. He did a great job – I was surprised that he works as a clerk in a supermarket!

Now I’m back at home thinking about dinner. I bought some roasted port at Carrefour, and some inari. I have lots of dinner options, I’ll just have to see what sounds good.

Japan Again

Since I couldn’t sleep much last night I was up early already. I surfed the internet, did some stretches, took a long shower, and went across the street to a convenience store for some breakfast.

They had a free shuttle to the airport, so I caught that with a Japanese family, and enjoyed the ability to eavesdrop on a little bit of their conversation. After being around Korean people, it was a joy to be able to figure out just a bit of what people were saying.

The airport was slammed. I put my luggage on a big cart and trucked it in there, and joined the lineup for my airline. While in line the lady behind me didn’t pay attention and ran into the back of my sandalled foot. Ouch! I gave her a big smile and she just smiled back – there’s not a lot to say when you can’t speak each other’s language.

In the gift shop I picked up some metal chopsticks for Kuniko, and then I boarded my flight. I sat next to a Korean guy who watched a bootleg DVD of The Chronicles of Riddick the whole time. The flight was pretty short – just 90 minutes, so I was still fresh and happy when I arrived in Osaka.

I ran through the lines at immigration without a problem, and chatted with the customs guy for a little bit. He decided not to search me, and so I took my bags out the door and Kuniko was right there. After a big hug we both walked over to see Yuri, who Kuniko drove to the airport for her flight to America. We caught up and had lunch at a Chinese place on the third floor.

We sent Yuri on her way, and then we made the long drive back to my hometown. It was nice to have the ride – I’d hate to deal with all the heavy luggage on the train. Some of those stations don’t have elevators!

Back at my place I gave Kuniko the presents that she had received from my mom and Nancy and Lynn. She was so happy to get lots of cool stuff! It was like Christmas in August.

Kuniko was around for dinner, so since my fridge was empty we decided to go to the yakitori. I brought a bottle of wine that my mom had given me to give to the master for omiyage. He was thrilled! We asked me all kinds of questions, and with Kuniko there we were able to figure out everything.

To drink Kuniko had ordered ramune, and I ordered the same thing. It was amazing! The bottle is sealed only with a marble. The master pushed the marble into the bottle, and then we could pour our own soda. The marble just rolls around in there. It was so cool – on the second round the master let me try to open one – it was fizzy and messy, but it worked. I had never seen anything like that before. Another first!

After dinner Kuniko had to go home, so I spent an hour or so making up my omiyage for the teachers at school, and then I went to bed. Right when I went to bed a typhoon blew in, so I opened the window and let the cool air blow in and listened to the pounding rain outside. I felt bad that Kuniko was out in storm taking a train home – but I sent her a message and she was just fine. The good news was that I slept great – I guess the jet lag is over!

Korea Landfall

I’m in Korea! The flight went well enough, but I definitely an developing some saddle sores from sitting on an airplane seat that long. Once again I got an exit row, so that helped a lot with the leg room.

I sat next to a young American guy in the army stationed in Korea. He was thrilled to sit next to someone that spoke English, so we talked for a long time. He seemed nice enough, and he slept for a few hours which gave me a conversation break. Sitting next to him I got to see how he acted and treated people around him that didn’t understand his language. There was a definitely an attitude there – maybe it’s because he’s military, but I found myself once again feeling guilty by association.

As we got off the plane we passed through a walkway made out of glass, and on the horizon you could see the sun starting to set over some mountains in the distance. I still get the shivers when I’m getting off the plane in a foreign country – there’s a sense of anticipation… you know it’s going to be a lot of strange things happening, and everything will be different from what you’re used to. I love that.

Korean customs was a breeze – I just walked right out, and went out to see the crowds of people standing in front of the arrivals waiting. When I had reserved the hotel room in Korea they asked me to type in my flight number and arrival time, so I was harboring some kind of transportation fantasy in which they have a sign with my name on it, and then they whisk me off to my waiting bed. Unfortunately, no such luck – I went outside in the heat and tracked down a taxi.

As soon as the taxi driver put my heavy suitcases into his trunk and sat me inside, he started arguing with some other taxi guy. They gestured at me a couple of times, and pushed each other. Nobody threw a punch, but they were just one word away from it. It’s one of those classic travel moments that you never see on the American Express commercials. I’ve got 100 pounds of luggage locked in the trunk, so all I can do is sit around until they finish. Finally, a third guy came out of the crowd, took the keys from the driver, and drove me himself. Weird – I had no way to ask him what happened.

He dropped me off at the hotel, about ten minutes from the airport. The hotel was nice! I had gotten a deluxe room because it was only $5 more than the regular room, and what a nice setup it was.

The manager came up with me to show me how everything worked. The whole room was controlled by a single remote control. They had a giant TV, VCR/DVD, a networked computer, a huge bathroom with separate shower and bathtub, heated floors, air conditioning, and even free porn!

After taking a shower and changing my clothes, I headed out into the town to scare up some grub and look around. Walking the streets of this town was different than walking around Japan – you don’t feel quite as safe. It’s not that it felt dangerous, maybe just that it felt unpredictable. Hard to explain.

I went to a restaurant that looked promising and pointed at something on the menu since I couldn’t read anything. The waiter, wearing a bicycle helmet, took my order and then collected some food to go and ran outside to get on his moped. The food showed up a few minutes later, and it was delicious. It was cold noodles with a spicy sauce, a hard boiled egg, and lots of vegetables. I mixed up the whole thing and it was great!

After dinner I went back to the hotel to try to get some sleep, but it wasn’t in the cards. I slept for about two hours, and spent the rest of the night sitting there in wishing I could sleep. I guess that’s what jet lag will do to you. What a day.

A Day At The Beach

Today my grandparents were off to church in the morning, and then on to meet up with Vicki for a brunch. My folks and I saw it as a great opportunity to spend some time together out on the coast.

We drove up to the Armstrong Redwoods to look around there. It was the first time that I had been there, and it was pretty nice. I had forgotten how massive the largest redwoods actually are.

We walked around for a little while in the redwoods, and then got back in the car and headed into Guerneville. There was some kind of triathalon going on there – lots of cars were driving up and down the street. We kept on going through town and out to Bodega Bay, looking for a good place to eat. My parent’s recommended a snack bar right on Bodega Bay, so we had fish and chips there.

After lunch we drove back to Goat Rock State Beach and spent about an hour watching the sea lions, walking the beach, and looking for treasures among the rocks and shells on the seashore. It was good therapy!

For dinner tonight it was Italian food – pizza (from Mary’s!) and homemade spaghetti. We also had some garlic bread and some salad with homemade blue cheese dressing – delicious!

Now I’m wrapping things up here by finishing with packing and collecting my belongings that have seemed to spread all over the house. Tomorrow morning we’ll drive to San Francisco and then I’ll fly on to Seoul for the night. I’ll write more once I settle in at home!