Fleeting Bliss

I have already got a commuting routine down, thanks to Kuniko and Yahoo! Japan. As we settle into the routine, things start to get comfortable. Work is more and more relaxed, people are starting to get used to me, and all in all I’m feeling good as I start and end each day.

That’s not to say that shit doesn’t happen.

At work today I found out two things that interested me greatly about my job. The first thing was that I was part of a long line of ALTs that have worked at the school. Nobody has stayed longer than six months, because they apparently don’t use an ALT at any of the city junior high schools between March and August. That means, that no matter how much I love my job or they love me, I’ll be looking for a new job come March.

That’s fine – I’ve got no problem with that. March will be a great time to be looking for work, since the official school year starts in April. So, the result is that I’ll try not to get too attached to my school, because it is just a temporary gig and I need to remember that.

But it’ll be hard to not get attached to my school. I heard today that my school is the top school in Nishinomiya city – number one among 20 schools. All the teachers hope every year that they’ll get transferred to the school, and all the school’s teachers hope every year that they won’t be transferred away. The students are well-behaved and enthusiastic. The teachers discussing this with me made it sound like the Dream Academy of the Future or something. They clearly love their jobs, and every day I get to see why.

Today I had four classes, and every one of them was an enjoyable teaching experience. The students reacted really well, and the time just flew by. I taught with Matsunaga sensei for the first time. She’s a taco enthusiast and also one of the teachers that gave me so much information today. She’s also got a Costco card and promised to do some shopping for me in the future.

Her class went by the book, but we had a good time regardless. The students in that class were really noisy, especially two guys who just wouldn’t be quiet. But who can complain when they only use English. At that age they haven’t learned much English, so they used variations of what they did know to try to communicate. They were shouting out things like “I like food is hamburger!” and “Yes, me, yes!” Give them top marks for enthusiasm, and later I congratulated them in the hallways.

I made some macaroni and cheese for dinner tonight in an effort to whittle down the very large amount of macaroni that we have on hand. Last night the rice cooker died, so we had to make an emergency run to Kuniko’s parent’s house to pick up her old one from her days living in Osaka. It works fine, though, and our lunch boxes are back in business.

Now I’m heading to bed to try to get to sleep early. We’re getting up early every morning to make it an easier commute, but we end up getting tired pretty early in the evening. The hidden cost of commuting, I guess.

Challenging

I had just one class today – but I did get my schedule for the upcoming two weeks, and it was chock full of classes. From tomorrow on I’ll be really busy – four classes a day, and that won’t end for a while. Next week I’ll have 22 classes in a week, out of a possible 30. I’m looking forward to keeping busy and meeting all the new students.

Since I had some free time today, I worked on some Japanese, came up with some ideas for some new lessons, and went over some of the paperwork that I received from the staffing agency. The day went pretty quickly, actually, and I had time to meet some students in the hallways and even play ping-pong with the table tennis club after school.

The office manager, Sato-san, came over and spent a lot of time with me looking at the picture book that I brought along. She really enjoyed looking through the pictures, and I get a feeling that she really likes hanging out with the ALTs. She even went to Canada to attend the wedding of a former ALT, so she seems to build close relationships with them. That’s good news for me – since she’s the office manager she can really take care of me.

I was going to the assembly at the end of the day, and one of the handicapped kids grabbed me by the hand out of nowhere and walked with me towards the gym. I was a little surprised, but we walked together and he talked constantly to me in Japanese. I had trouble figuring out what he was saying, and to tell you the truth I was a little nervous because I don’t know anything about his condition, but I could tell he just wanted to be friendly. He seemed like a nice guy.

The school does all it can to help challenged students fit in with the other kids. There are people assigned to help the students go through normal routines, and they work side by side with the teachers to make sure that everything runs smoothly. There is a Chinese girl who is learning Japanese (and English, in my class), and so she has an adult interpreter that stays with her and helps her understand what is going on. The school is built to handle challenged kids, but they make up only a small percentage of the student population – just 10 kids out of 500 or so.

I took the fastest train I could on the way home, and the best case scenario has me getting home around 5:15 p.m. That’s pretty good – and I get a lot of studying done on the way home, too.

Tonight I’m going to make Korean yakiniku for dinner, so I’ve got the meat marinating while I’m waiting for Kuniko to get home. In the meantime I’ll do a little laundry and get the place organized. It’s only Tuesday – I’ve got lots of classes ahead of me and lots of tiny hands to shake.

First Classes

I just arrived home from my first day of classes at my new job. The verdict – it was great!

I got to work early today, and all the teachers were looking at their watches and acting like I was some kind of crazy workaholic. This is an easy trick to build favor early on – apparently most ALTs roll into work at the very last second possible. Show up an hour early and you are up for the ALT of the year award.

I had three classes today, and they all went really well. The first class was with Kuroda sensei. She is a younger teacher and she has a lot of enthusiasm and she really wants to learn more English. We went through the lesson without a hitch. The class was second year students – most of them around 13 years old. They did a great job with the quiz part of the lesson, and I think I need to ratchet up the difficulty a little bit. Still, I figure it’s best to start easy and help them build a little confidence.

The next two classes were with Harada sensei, and older gentleman who has the attitude like he’s seen it all, but he’s open to new things. I taught two first year classes with him, and they were really fun. The students had all kinds of questions for me: are you married? Do you have any brothers or sisters? How many times a month do you cut your toenails?

My school has some handicapped students in the student body – about 10 students. There was one in my class today, and he did just fine. I’m guessing he’s mildly retarded. In addition, I’m going to be teaching maybe one class a month to some retarded and disabled students. That sounds like a real challenge, and it’s something I’m looking forward to.

Everywhere I go in the school kids are saying hello. I’ve never been around students so eager to make a connection with me. They don’t have a lot of vocabulary to use, but they are dying to talk to me. I made lots of friends with the students today by just walking around during my free periods, and I’ve found that I really like working with this age group. I had a fun conversation with a first year student – fresh out of elementary school and just a tiny little guy. His got huge when he heard that I was wearing size 30 shoes – and we stood next to each other to compare our height. I’m by no means particularly big, but to him – I was something that he had never seen before.

Also, there was a huge relaxation about my presence in the staff room. Last Friday I noticed that some people seemed a little distant – just not so friendly. Today those people were much warmer and as they got used to me, they really were lightening up. During school clean-up time I went unbidden to the third year students classrooms, picked a random one, went inside and picked up a broom and started sweeping. The homeroom teacher was delighted. He had kind of ignored me the other day, but at the end of the day he was at my desk thanking me and laughing with me.

In short, I’m really into my new school. And it’s only day 2.

I’m back home now, and I’m about ready to clean up the house a little bit before Kuniko gets home. She wants to cook dinner tonight, so I’ll hang loose until she gets here and then see whats on the menu.

Tomorrow I have only one class, since there are some exams based on the summer’s homework. I’ll have a lot of time to study at my desk, and that is something I haven’t been able to do in a long time. My Japanese really needs some improvement.

Friends

Sunday was a nice easy day, that culminated with a visit to Futami and a chance encounter with just about everybody I know in that small town.

Kuniko went into work for a little more than a half-day, and when she got home we headed to Carrefour to look for a particular tequila that a co-worker had tried in Japan and liked. Unfortunately, they didn’t have it in stock anymore. We bought some Hawaiian beer instead (Kona Brewing Co.) for Kuniko’s dad to get him in the mood for Hawaii, and I bought a couple for me since it is really hard to find ales in Japan.

While we were at Carrefour we bumped into one of the regulars from Denya, Takao-san along with his wife and kids. They were really surprised to see us, and we promised them that we’d go out drinking at Denya sometime soon.

After Carrefour we headed over to Kuniko’s parents house to pick up a futon for Kuniko’s sister to use at our house next weekend. Kuniko’s mom strong-armed us into eating another dinner there, and so we ate and drank with them. It worked out to be a really good thing, giving Kuniko a chance to vent some of her work frustrations in full-on Japanese. We had coffee and dessert, and then headed out. Of course they loaded us down with some goodies – we took home two large bags of macaroni that they had gotten from someone. Next week will be pasta week, I think!

On the way home we stopped in at Ito Yokado to pick up some food for lunches, and we ended up bumping into Yasu’s mom, Yasu, my ex-upstairs neighbor Jane and another ex-ALT named Chris. We shopped upstairs and Kuniko found a new track suit to wear for her upcoming Sports Day. I found a pair of size 30 shoes, which is huge for Japan. I tried them on quickly and then bought them on the spot. Size 30 shoes don’t show up in Japan too often.

Finally we came on home, tired and ready for bed. It was a really nice day because we got to see so many of our friends, and it really hit home how many nice people we know here in Japan.

First Day At School

Today Kuniko and I headed off to our first day of school. She was going back to her school, and I was starting at a new school. I put in a full day at work for the first time in a month, and it felt really good.

It will take a bit of experimentation until I get a good commute rhythm going. Today I made a few mistakes that cost me a few minutes, but on the other hand I was able to sit for most of the journey, despite a packed train every now and then.

I got to school a little early, but not quite as early as I was shooting for. Still, the principal called me to his office and hid me there to make sure that I had a dramatic entrance and surprise all the teachers.

We had a little time to kill, so I sat with him and talked about all kinds of experiences inside and outside of Japan. I learned from him that my new school sends students to Spokane, Washington every year, and that the principal himself took the trip last year. It sounds like English has a big role at my new school, and I was happy to hear that.

He brought me into the staff room for the morning meeting, and introduced me to all the staff. Everybody was murmuring when I came in, and some female teachers near the front kept saying “He looks exactly like Tom Cruise!” The principal bragged that my Japanese was better than his own, and I followed up that statement with a short, nervous introduction. It seems like all the principals like to steal your speech thunder around here – he told them just about everything about me living me with not much left to say.

I sat down after the introduction and got settled into my new desk. It was in a good spot, not isolated from all the other teachers like I had feared. I am sitting next to an English teacher, which helps a lot, although Matsunaga sensei looks at me with just a little bit of fear. She’s trying to keep her distance I think, and I only saw her smile once all day.

The other English teachers were nice enough, and there were a couple that I got along well with right away. I’m looking forward to getting to know them all better later on.

The next stop was the gymnasium for a morning assembly for the students and my introduction. I wasn’t quite so nervous this time, and since I was last on the agenda I could really watch and get a feel for the atmosphere of the school.

This is my first time teaching at a junior high school, and a few big differences became apparent today. For one, there is less worry about being cool. The students are obviously younger and they seemed less shy. Everyone knew the school song, which surprised me – nobody knew the school song at Takanan except for the guy playing the piano. They weren’t being treated as strictly as my previous school. Teachers asked students to behave with a small voice and a smile on their faces, and the students always reacted quickly and behaved.

Finally it was my turn for my introduction. The principal once again told them all about me, and was so excited that he told them that I was a great Japanese speaker. Then he seemed to realize that he had spilled the beans and tried to cover it by spending a few minutes telling them how important it is to use English with me.

I made a short speech in English, and then finished with just a little bit of Japanese. Then, a representative from the student council came up to the stage and made a short welcome speech to me in English. It was a good speech. He said that this school was “the most wonderful in the whole world”, so I guess I lucked out.

After the assembly I headed back to the office, but not before talking with lots of kids on the way. I got a chance to meet one of the disabled students, who was there with his mother. I wasn’t sure if he was even awake, but they introduced him anyway. He was a tiny little guy confined to a wheelchair – my school is actually set up with an elevator to handle physically challenged students, which is fairly rare, as I understand it.

In fact, one of the teachers that sits near me is handicapped – he is missing his left arm from above his elbow. I had lunch with him and another teacher and he set his bowl of noodles on top of the upper part of his arm and slurped it down with an amazing amount of dexterity. I wonder what other surprises lie in wait for me at the school.

My principal even gave me a tour of the school, so I got a chance to see the student council room, the art studio, the computer room, and most of the student’s classrooms. It is a smaller school that Takanan, but it seems like there are a lot of open classrooms – perhaps because of the diminishing enrollment across Japan.

I was eager to get some lesson planning done, since starting on Monday I will be teaching classes. Unfortunately they hadn’t yet figured out when I will be teaching, other than a few classes on Monday. I’m going to do a self introduction on Monday to a few classes, but hopefully that day I’ll know more about what they need me to do every week.

Another interesting person at my school was the office manager, an older lady who speaks really good English. She tried to get me signed up for Toastmasters right away. She was happy to help me get set up, and she told me that I was lucky to be teaching at the school, because the students have such a high level of English. Later this was confirmed for me when looking over their summer homework. The English level was much higher than even the best of my students at Takasago Minami, and that was a high school! Maybe the high level will be a big help while adapting to the junior high school environment.

Before I knew it it was time to go, so I had the vice-principal check off my timesheet and I hit the road. I took my sweet time getting home, choosing slow trains where I could sit over fast trains where I would have to stand, and I still made it back in an hour.

Kuniko was at a school event – a dinner to celebrate the start of the new school term. She didn’t get home until 10:30 or so, so I walked down the street for some gyoza and had a celebration-for-one at home. Now I get a whole weekend to relax before I go back to school on Monday. Lucky, lucky.

Catching Up On Entries

I’ve been really busy lately, and I’ve ended up falling behind on the blog. Sorry! It’s one of those traps where I’m doing lots of stuff, so I have lots to write about, but no time to write it down.

We had a fairly successful matchmaking dinner the other night. Kuniko was setting up one of her friends with one of her coworkers, and we watched them get to know each other a little bit over a pretty good Korean dinner.

I tried to get my driver’s license, but was held up on a technicality. It’s a long, boring story, but I’m going to need to write to the California DMV and hope that they can dig something up from their database from 1986. I’m not optomistic that it will work out. Until then, I’m off the streets.

I met up with Komori sensei, and we had a couple of beers and even some sushi at the underground sushi restaurant. As usual, it was fun to hang out with him, and he had an interesting idea for doing an English conversation course using his spare studio on Sundays. We’ll see what develops there.

Yesterday was a full day of shopping, culminating in the purchase of a plasma television. We didn’t really intend to buy one yesterday, but we found the one we wanted for around $600 cheaper than anywhere else. That’s right – and it’s not a floor model or used or the wrong serial number or anything like that. I think we stumbled on a sales manager that needed to move some TVs out of his store before the end of the month.

Here’s the part that blew me away – he showed us the price tag, and then offered an even bigger discount. Then, once we accepted the quoted price, he asked if we had an elevator where we lived. Since we don’t, there was an extra 2000 yen charge for the delivery guys to haul it up to our apartment and set it up. I was already nodded my head imagining the low price that he quoted was starting to get higher, but he subtracted the 2000 yen from the price, to cover the delivery charge. And he apologized the whole time. Service in Japan is pretty amazing sometimes. The TV arrives on Monday night.

That night Ai-chan and Chiemi-chan came all the way out to visit us in our new place. It’s always fun to have them over – they are really nice people and fun to eat and drink with. Kuniko had worked hard to make several dishes that used up all the vegetables that we had received from her father, and the evening started off pretty calmly with conversation over wine with dinner.

Things got a little more lively when Ai-chan had her first taste of tequila, and soon everyone got into the act. I was drinking two shots for each one that Ai-chan drank, and in between we finished a couple of bottles of wine, including a delicious Chianti that we brought home from Italy.

We finished all the food and moved on to dessert, and had some dessert wine interspersed with tequila shots and some cream pudding that Ai-chan had brought along. Around 10:30 we had to break up the party, since it was a long way back for them. We were all bummed out, since things were really going well. I think we decided to do it again just before a weekend when everyone can stay over and not worry about the last train. It was a great night, and both Kuniko and I went to bed a little bit drunk.

Unsafe At Any Speed, Busted!

I got my act together a little late on Monday. By the time I saw Kuniko off at the door, cleaned up, had breakfast, and got dressed it was nearly 11 o’clock in the morning. My plan was to head to the Japanese equivalent of the DMV to look at the practice course and maybe, if there were just a few people, take a crack at getting a Japanese driver’s license.

I don’t need a license. Generally, if I can’t get there by train then I don’t really need to get there. Unless you live out in the country (or have friends/relatives that do) or unless your job requires it, there is no reason to have a driver’s license in Japan.

But, there are a couple of reasons why I’m going to try and get it. The big one is that I feel bad that anytime we drive anywhere, Kuniko is the one who has to drive. Sometimes that can get old, and especially if we take a long roadtrip it would be helpful. Also, if there was an emergency, I could drive her or someone else to the hospital. Of course, in an emergency I would probably go ahead and do that license or not.

Another less important reason is that her dad wants me to get a license. I’m not sure why – maybe he expects that in a husband and wife relationship, the man should be driving. I don’t know, exactly, but every time we go over there, he asks me how the license is coming along. Maybe driving a car is some kind of status thing, here.

Anyway, getting a license is no easy trick, especially for a foreigner. First, there’s no such thing as a learner’s permit, so people in Japan need to go to a school with a closed course to learn to drive. Nobody ever learns from their relatives – you can’t drive legally without a license, so you need to use a closed course.

In my case I’ll just be transferring my California license over to Japan, but since things are a little different here (right hand drive, etc) I need to take both a written and a practical exam. The written test is just 10 true/false questions in English, but the practical exam is a driving test on a closed course. The test is legendary among foreigners in Japan, and it is not unusual for people to fail the test five to eight times before passing. Somewhere along the way the test gradually turned from a realistic test of your skills in a driving situation to a set of things you have to memorize and do in a particular order to pass.

For example, you need to remember to walk around the car and look for children or animals underneath before the exam begins, look both ways for imaginary traffic before you get in the car, and then make various adjustments of the handbrake, mirrors, and seat before you get started. If you forget to do one of these, you fail. There are 20 places on the course where you are expected to signal a turn, and if you miss one, fail. If you don’t check your mirrors in the proper order while making a lane change, you fail. You get the point.

I found a website that describes all the things that you should watch out for the exam. The biggest complaint is that it really doesn’t test your skills at all – it’s just having a test for the sake of having a test. I’ve found that is a pretty common trend in Japan. They love tests here.

So how do all these kids getting their licenses deal with this overly strict driving test? They don’t take it. There is an option to take a one month driving course at a licensed school, and students passing that do not have to take the driving test at the DMV. They do have to pay around $3,000 though.

I got to the driver’s license center around noon, and asked lots of questions of the people there. The gist of it was, that foreigners can only apply for a license between 9:30 and 10:00 a.m., and since it was too late I was out of luck. The good news was that when I arrived they had just closed the course to cars, so I could walk through the course and check it out.

I tried very hard to ask permission, but in the end I couldn’t find anyone who might be able to give it. So, I just walked out there with some other people and pretended that someone told me it was OK. The course was big – really big. I walked through most of it and there weren’t any surprises. They had an intersection with a traffic light, a couple of hills, and even some fake train tracks and a train crossing signal that would occasionally ring as if a train was coming.

After reviewing the area carefully, I headed on back home. It wasn’t long before Kuniko got home from work. I cooked up stuffed green peppers for dinner, and after dinner we both did a little studying. I found out that the optional training for my new job was not really optional – thanks to a little miscommunication with my supervisor. She is usually pretty good at English but she made a little verbal mistake and had me thinking that I had Tuesday off. Turns out I’ll need to go into southern Osaka again for a three-hour training session. So, I won’t be able to try for my driver’s license on Tuesday. That leaves Wednesday and Thursday to give it a shot.

In the evening we went over to the movie theater for a late show, and saw our first movie in a very long time. We saw Superman Returns, since I was a big fan of the movies when I was a kid. It was pretty good – a fun movie, although it was pretty loud. On our way to the movie we bumped into a bunch of my ex-students from Takanan, a group of around five girls. They were all dressed up for a shopping trip, and they looked much older than they appear at school in their uniforms without makeup. They were out kind of late for students, too – suspicious behavior!

We stopped in at Starbucks to buy a drink to take into the movies, and we spotted an ex-coworker of mine from Takasago Minami, Fujimaru sensei, sitting with a younger female teacher that used to teach at the school a year ago, Watanabe sensei. It looked like some kind of date, so Kuniko and I stayed away because we didn’t want to interfere. Actually, Fujimaru sensei is married, so it seemed like a risky move to being hanging out with a young, single teacher at night in a public place like Starbucks – especially after we had just seen some of his students walking by.

We got our drinks, but the guy who gave them to us indicated that the straws were over there – pointing to a table right next to where Fujimaru sensei was sitting. Oh, well – sorry man. I went over and got the straws, and had no choice but to saw hello. He smiled uneasily at me, and Watanabe sensei said hello and seemed really smiley and bubbly as usual. We got out of there as soon as we could, but Fujimaru sensei really looked busted.

We got home late, late, late, and then headed right to bed. Tomorrow we’ll be meeting up for the big date for Matsuo in the evening. I’ve got training in the afternoon and my long trip to Osaka south. I hope it’s at least entertaining.

A Test, A Visit, And Lots Of Vegetables

Sunday turned out to be pretty busy. Kuniko had to go into Kobe to take an exam, and I went into Kobe to meet her after it was finished. Together we went over to Wendy’s for some quick lunch, and then headed to her friend Tomomi-chan’s place to hang out.

It was a fairly short trip on the Hankyu line, and we met Tomomi-chan and another one of Kuniko’s friends Matsuo-chan at the train station. Tomomi-chan’s place was nearby, just a few minutes walk from the station.

Tomomi-chan got married a while back (in fact, I won the iPod at her second party), and this was the second time to meet her husband. He’s a really nice guy with a good personality. He seemed really relaxed and he was quick to smile.

We sat around and talked, watched TV, and ate lots of food. We also got a chance to look at the pictures from their honeymoon trip to Italy. We had seen a lot of the same things, and it was fun to compare stories. They were also nice enough to open up a bottle of Chianti that they had brought back from Italy. It was delicious, and Tomomi-chan’s husband helped and I both worked on draining the bottle.

Late in the afternoon we decided to head out, so they walked us to the station and said goodbye. It was really fun to talk to everyone, and it looked like they were enjoying their post-wedding life. We shared a train with Matsuo for a little while. Kuniko is doing a little matchmaking and trying to connect Matsuo with Mori sensei, one of her coworkers at school. It turns out that I may be along for the date on Tuesday night, so I’ll get to meet her again soon. Should be interesting.

Kuniko and I stopped at Akashi station and picked up a birthday cake for Kuniko’s sister. She was staying at her folks’ place, so we made a quick stop at home and then drove to their house. We ate dinner there, and had some birthday cake for dessert. Kuniko’s sister looked happy, and I think it was a pretty nice little birthday party.

We couldn’t get out of there without taking loads of vegetables with us. We took onions, a pumpkin, a big bag of green peppers, some okra, and even some white eggplants. Besides the veggies they also gave us some cakes, snacks, and leftovers from a rice dish that Kuniko’s mom made for dinner. We need more people to eat all this food.

We arrived home with full bellies again, and conked out soon after that. Tomorrow the week officially starts, but I don’t start teaching until Friday.

Just A Friday

It was a pretty mellow Friday. I slept in, did laundry, worked on the computer, studied Japanese, and occasionally felt guilty for not being part of the workforce. Luckily, Kuniko got home early. We bought a commuter pass for my new job, starting in September, and also did a little shopping around Saty and MyCal.

In the evening we went back to our old stomping grounds in Futami to shop at Carrefour and Ito Yokado. There were a couple of specialty items we were looking for. Carrefour had done a big restock of their beer section – I scored some stuff that is really hard to find in Japan – Negra Modelo, Singh, and XXXX from Australia.

The had lots of others that I wanted to buy, but I’ll hold off for now. The fridge is certainly well stocked for the time being. I also picked up some Cholula hot sauce, so I’m looking forward to the next Mexican meal.

We had tossed around the idea of going to see a movie on Friday, but Kuniko was so tired that we decided to postpone the idea until later. We had a nice simple dinner of cold udon noodles with ponzu sauce, and some tofu with ginger, onions and soy sauce.

This weekend Kuniko has to work on Saturday, but I think that she’ll have Sunday off from work. I’m going to just stay home and stay cool – the heat has been oppressive lately.

Meet Your New School

I’ve got to get back in the routine of updating the site. Yesterday was a pretty busy day, which is a bit unusual. I’ve had some free time since we’ve gotten back from Europe.

Yesterday I went into Nishinomiya to meet up with the staffing agency and two other ALTs. We met up at the station, and then went to the Nishinomiya Board of Education to meet them. It was a short, simple meeting. The lady urged us to have fun, teach the students well, and speak English as much as we could to the students and the English teachers on staff.

The staffing agency people seemed a little nervous, and I guess it is because this is a new contract for them. Last year the Nishinomiya schools were working with another agency, and for whatever reason they decided to stop (probably price). My agency is really concerned with making a good impression, and so they seemed a little jumpy today.

After the Board of Education meeting, we walked back to the station and then split up to visit our individual schools. It was the first time for me to meet one of the ALTs, a quiet and ever-so-slightly creepy girl named Ellie. The other guy I had met at the interview, a Canadian from Quebec named Louis. He was really nervous today and trying to make a good impression. He had learned some set phrases in Japanese from somebody, which helped him a bit. I mostly just kept smiling and tried to convey the feeling that we were all competent professionals were going to do a great job.

I met up with another guy from the staffing agency to take me to my school. He was a little nervous, too. He spoke pretty good English, so we chatted on the way over there. He didn’t seem all that personable, probably because he was nervous, but I expected somebody with his job would have more of an outgoing personality.

My school is called Hamawaki Junior High School, and it is located in Nishinomiya near the Hanshin station. It will take a little bit of logistics to get me there smoothly every day. I’ll need to change trains once, but after that it’s just a short walk from the station.

The school was a fairly small one, and when we approached it there were a few students doing summer activities – practicing music, sports, or just hanging out with their friends.

We went inside, and one thing I noticed right away was that we didn’t have to change into slippers. Relief! We went up to the principal’s office, and the agency guy introduced me to the principal and vice-principal.

They both seemed relieved that I could communicate somewhat in Japanese. We chatted and laughed about a few things, and they seemed genuinely interested in me and my background. That’s a good sign – I was (and still do) fear that because I’m working through an agency they will treat me as more of a resource than a person. Based on their reactions, though, maybe that won’t be the case.

They brought in the English teachers, who filed in and smiled at me nervously. As instructed by the Board of Education I spoke English with them, and introduced myself briefly. They introduced themselves as well. The English skill level varied a little bit, but nobody was too shy to speak and I think I’ll be able to get along with everyone.

Before I left one of the teachers asked how old I am – which seems to be a common question in Japan. Part of the reason is that it will establish where I am on the seniority hierarchy, and also because I look different and that makes it tough for Japanese people to guess my age. When I told them they acted surprised and smiled and looked at each other. There was something there being exchanged between them, but I think I missed it.

As for the teachers, most of them are on the older side. There was one lady that was a little younger – perhaps a couple of years older than I am. That shouldn’t be a problem, though. The situation was much the same at Takasago Minami.

We kept it short and soon I was heading back to the station with the agency guy. He hadn’t said much during the meeting but I complimented him on how well it went to give him a little confidence. We walked back to the Hanshin station, and I took a train there to Sannomiya, and then changed trains to JR and came back to Okubo.

I had missed lunch, but decided that I could wait for dinner. I spent my day studying Japanese and doing some research on maybe working on a Master’s degree. I’m still in the early stages of research, though. There’s a lot of information out there on picking up a degree. I know what I want to study, but the trick is doing the coursework in Japan – moving from here is not something I want to consider. There’s a couple of interesting possibilities, though, so I’ll keep looking into it and see what develops.

Kuniko had a meet-up with some old co-workers in Osaka Thursday night, so I decided to walk down to the local yakitori. I went in and sat down and the master recognized me immediately and said hello. The other customers looked at me a little bit, and a group of women at a table kept looking at me and giggling. I ordered up a beer and some food, and watched the baseball game on TV while I waited.

A couple of guys next to me worked up the nerve to ask me where I was from, and so we struck up a conversation. Turns out that they are regulars at the yakitori, and they know the master well. The master told them that I knew the master at Denya yakitori, and they nodded sagely, bought me a beer and I was kind of welcomed into their group. It’s almost as if I have transferred my yakitori credentials from Denya directly to the new place.

We talked about all kinds of things. One guy was married and the other guy was single. We talked about vacations and the difference between Japanese high school students and American high school students. It turned out that the single guy knew one of the ladies at the table and so he left us to go try his luck at entertaining them. The married guy and I talked on about politics and sports, and just passed the time easily. His name is Shu-san, and he tried to buy me another beer and a plate of nankotsu (cartilage on a stick).

At one point the master came over and told Shu-san that the last time I was there, I drank six beers and three sho-chus. Shu-san gave me a look that was a mixture of “You must be an alcoholic” and “You must be a god”. I explained that I don’t always drink like that, I was just having a particularly good time that night. I don’t want to set the master’s expectations that I’ll be doing that everytime I eat there.

It was getting on time to go, so I said goodbye to the master and Shu-san. I paid the bill, but before leaving I walked over to the single guy working the table of women. They all started giggling and waving to me as I arrived at the table. I said hello to them and then turned to the single guy and told him how good it was to talk to him and let’s hang out again sometime soon. I shook his hand, nodded to the ladies and left. Hopefully that gave him an edge with the ladies.

Kuniko’s train was delayed – actually, the whole western-bound line was delayed more than an hour. I waited at the Okubo gate and the conductors were busy trying to explain to everyone why they would have to sit around and wait. It’s very unusual for trains to be delayed that much in Japan, and usually it’s because somebody committed suicide by jumping in front of a train. Today it was for some other reason – but the result was Kuniko came home late and exhausted. I walked her home and soon we crashed out and went to bed.

Friday I am free, and Kuniko might be getting home in the afternoon, so hopefully we’ll be able to do something fun. I’m eager to be teaching again, and I can’t wait to start going to work and having some fun with the students and teachers.

Honeymoon Trip

I’ve just posted all the honeymoon trip summaries and photos. They are listed by date, so you’ll need to scroll to the bottom of the page and work your way up to read them in order. Here’s a shortcut to each day of the trip:

Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | Day 7 | Day 8 | Day 9 and 10

If you want to look at the pictures, you can see them here.

Also, there is a link to each day’s pictures at the beginning of each day’s post.

I hope you enjoy the postings and the pictures. We had a great time on the trip, and now we’re ready to get started with another phase of our lives. More on that soon!

Honeymoon Trip Day 9 and 10 – Rome and Home

You can see pictures from this day here.

On the last day in Rome we wanted to see the Sistine Chapel, since it was closed when we first arrived. Unfortunately thanks to all the wine and Nutella from the night before we got a late start, and by the time we arrived the line was miles long. We decided to go ahead and wait – we didn’t have an appointment until the train departure at 6:30 that evening.

The line was tough. It stretched around the Vatican wall and you were never quite sure how long it was. It didn’t help that we had been walking all over the place for almost ten straight days, and it was taking a toll. We were surrounded by people with various ideas about what was polite, and all the body heat was making me sweat.

We had skipped breakfast and I was dying for something to drink or eat. As we slowly went through the line, various beggars would be there waiting for us. There was an old lady with half her scalp missing due to some strange disease, Indian guys selling fans and drinking water, women with kids begging for money or food, Korean guys smoking cigarettes.

We turned one corner and saw that the line had gotten so thick from people joining it in the middle that it was attracting even more people – we had waited almost an hour to watch people just jump into line right in the middle and cutting in front of all of us. I would fear for my life if I did that, but they seemed to get away with it.

The line was at least eight people wide, so there was lots of back and forth. Somebody who might be behind could end up ahead of you; there was no reason to freak out. We were just cattle being herded somewhere. There was an American couple behind us talking away with some other Americans they met in line. They talked and talked and talked, sometimes loudly, and so I had to hear about their life stories and what kind of weed they thought was growing on the wall and how Asian people are so loud and annoying and how once they went to Benicia and it was really an interesting city.

At one point the loud couple got in front of us somehow. I didn’t mind – the line shifts and that’s fine – we’ll all get there. The female member of the loud couple was determined to get the other couple who they had met in line up in front with them, and so she kept giving us dirty looks as if we had somehow cut in between them. Luckily the other couple pointed out that they had been behind us the whole time, and they didn’t feel right walking in front of us now.

If it sounds like the tourists were getting to me, you’re right. Something as simple as looking in front of you when you walk forward can be a challenge for some of these people. We had been hitting the touristy sites for almost two weeks, and I was reaching my limit of what I could put up with.

But in the end, you just had to ask yourself how many times in your life you’ll get a chance to see the Sistine Chapel, and persevere. After two hours we made it inside, and gave the Pope 12 euros each to be admitted into his religious playground.

The Sistine Chapel was part of the Vatican museums, and on the way to the chapel you had a chance to see a lot of beautiful artwork and historical artifacts. We were really bowled over by how impressive it was. There was a long hallway filled only with maps painted as murals on the walls. The map room was the summary of the Catholic Church’s geographical knowledge of the age, and it was amazing to see every mountain and stream rendered in such detail on the walls. There were statues of all types – even some I wouldn’t expect to find inside a Catholic church. The variety was impressive.

Finally we reached the Sistine Chapel and went inside. Kuniko and I sat against the wall and took it all in. It was smaller than I expected, but it was impressive. Some of the paintings stood out as if in 3D. There was a huge crowd of people standing in there doing the same thing we were – trying to see it all. The Vatican museums were already worth the wait, but this was the icing on the cake.

Photos were allowed everywhere but inside the Sistine Chapel. They had signs everywhere showing a camera with a red slash through it. They had announcements in various languages saying no camera and video. Despite all of that, when we finally got into the Sistine Chapel the thing you noticed first was the crowd of people taking pictures. Earlier in line some girls in front of us were bragging about how they were going to take pictures anyway. Something was wrong with so many people blatantly ignoring the rules – but maybe I’m just getting old.

Finally we headed out and made our way back to our hotel. We stopped in for some sandwiches for lunch, and then picked up our bags and set out for the train station on foot. We could have taken the metro, but we had time to kill and we thought it might be more fun to take our time and enjoy the walk.

Kuniko navigated us through, carrying all our bags and wearing our backpacks, and we finally arrived at the station after more than an hour of walking. It was tough – but we did it. We killed a little time at the station, and then got on board our train.

You remember the overnight train to Venice? The hostel on a train? Well today, we were taking an overnight train all the way back to Paris. This time I was able to get a proper reservation, and we got on board to find a very comfortable room for two. There was a sink with running hot and cold water, towels, bottled water, blankets, room for all our bags, and a door that locked.

What a difference. It was the way it was supposed to be. This time we weren’t alarmed when the conductor asked for our passports. He brought us hot coffee and biscuits in the morning, and the bathrooms stayed clean. This was traveling in first class, and it made a huge difference.

We had a simple dinner of salami, prosciutto, cheese and crackers, and watched the scenery go by as we relaxed and recapped our trip. It was peaceful and relaxing, and we needed it big time.

We went to bed early and slept much better than our first experience on an overnight train. It was still a little tough to get used to the movement of the train, and sometimes we would stop in the middle of the night somewhere and pick up passengers. But, that door was locked and we were tucked into our beds. Before long it was morning, and we cleaned up a little bit using the wash basin and the bathroom down the hall. We arrived about an hour late in Paris, but there was still plenty of time before our flight. We headed to the bus stop to catch an airport bus, and were one of the last few people who made it on board. It was about 30 minutes on the bus, and we got on board our flight to Bangkok and had a long 10 hour flight. All this time was without a shower, though, and I was feeling pretty greasy. We stayed awake on the 10 hour flight as an attempt to beat the jet lag later on, so we got to the Bangkok airport and we were exhausted again.

I ended up renting a day room for four hours in the airport, and so we took a shower and then slept for three and a half hours, waking just in time to do some shopping and catch our flight back to Osaka. Clearing customs and immigration was a breeze in Japan, and we were home in our apartment around 11 p.m. The first thing we both did was take a bath. It felt so good.

Honeymoon Trip Day 8 – Rome

You can see pictures from this day here.

We slept well in the Rome apartment. We got our act together and hit the road with a free map that the hotel had on display. Rome is full of stuff to see, and we wanted to do as much as we could, even though we had nearly a full day the next day to look around.

We saw the Panthenon, and then made our way through the Roman forum ruins to reach the Colloseum. I’ve wanted to see that since I was a little kid, and I got a little thrill when we saw it in the distance.

Unfortunately, the tourists were already there and the line to get in was really long. It looked like a couple of hours, at least. The good news was that I had an insider tip from my guidebook. We walked to another less popular attraction just down the road, waited in line behind two other people, and then bought a combination pass for that site and also the Colloseum, and then came back.

Kuniko wasn’t quite sure what I was doing, and although I tried to explain, her instinct was to just get in line instead of mucking around with this perhaps futile trick. We got back to the Colloseum and instead of joining the back of the line, we walked to the front and observed that there was actually another entrance for groups and ticket holders. We hesitantly put our tickets in the machine and walked right in. We saved hours of waiting and I was glad that the guidebook tip worked out. I know I would have gotten in big trouble with Kuniko if I didn’t work out.

The Colloseum was even more interesting inside – we walked around taking pictures and tried to imagine what it was like way back when. It really sunk in then that you were walking in the footsteps of so many people who lived so long ago – seeing the lion cages and catacombs underneath the Colloseum really brought it home.

From the Colloseum we headed across town and saw the Trevi fountain, which reminded me of Las Vegas quite a bit. We took in a lot of minor fountains and famous sites, and we stopped for drinks every once in a while to keep ourselves hydrated. We had lunch outside a café on top of the Spanish Steps near Piazza Spagnio. We ate prosciutto sandwiches, a big mozzarella salad and sipped fruit juices – refreshing.

We also did some shopping at some grocery stores for some pastas and fun things that are hard to find in Japan. Kuniko wanted to get some things for her co-workers, so we spent quite a bit of time exploring the supermarket shelves for fun things. Kuniko found an interesting Nutella product – it had some Nutella in one compartment, some bread sticks to dip into the Nutella, and it had a drink compartment built in as well. She was dying to try it out, so we picked one up for later.

For dinner we ate near the hotel at a restaurant that the hotel guy recommended. It was pretty good and it was cheap, a welcome change for us. We ate pizza and pasta and I had roast pork, and we washed it all down with lots of house wine. While we were there a busload of Japanese tourists came in as part of a tour. The tour guide gave the owner of the restaurant a secret handshake, and all the tourists went inside. I hate to think how much they paid for their dinner.

It was our last evening in Rome, so we kept drinking and ended up back at the hotel a little tipsy with a container of Nutella. I did a little photo documentary of Kuniko trying it for the first time. It was good, actually, although the room temperature tea kind of weirded me out.

Honeymoon Trip Day 7 – Florence and Rome

You can see pictures from this day here.

We got ourselves out of bed and headed out early to get a good shot at seeing the statue of David. It was one of the things I wanted to see in Florence, and my guidebook said that the museum wasn’t far from where our hotel was. We checked out of our hotel but left our bags there, and then walked to the museum.

We got there early enough – there were only five or six other people waiting for it to open. It opened up at 8:15, and we went in, paid for our ticket and then left for the exhibit area. This museum also had a little gift shop in the lobby, and I thought it was strange that they didn’t have postcards and T-shirts and everything else with the famous image of David on it. Maybe they weren’t into capitalizing on art like that.

We looked through the museum – it was quite a good one. The artwork was not only sculptures, but artifacts from history – king’s scepters made of ivory, ancient Roman mirrors and cosmetics kits – they had a little bit of everything.

Upstairs, among sculptures of the Virgin Mary by Michelangelo I finally found David. It was a bronze sculpture about 1 meter tall. I had found Donatello’s David – but not the David I was looking for. Kuniko and I had a long laugh about that, and left the museum soon after to try to find the one I had been thinking about.

The museum that housed the marble David wasn’t too far away, and we got there and got in a long line of people waiting to get in. While we were in line a guy behind us started to speak with a family in front of us in Spanish – maybe he overheard them speaking Spanish and so he calmly moved in front of us and started taking animatedly with the family members. It became apparent that he was planning on staying in front of us, and Kuniko restrained me from saying something rude to him.

Karma worked out well, though. The family that he was talking to soon figured out that the guy really liked to talk, and as he became more animated and agitated there was nowhere for them to run. I decided that I didn’t mind him being in front of us at all – and it made the wait that much more interesting to watch them squirm.

Finally we got into the museum, and it was quite beautiful. The David was the one I (and all the other tourists) wanted to see. We spent a fair amount of time there, and tried to take in as much as we could. The captions of the art pieces were in both Italian and English, so we got a bit more out of this museum than the others.

Next stop was the Duomo – but it was closed for cleaning and refurbishment, so we were left with just the exterior to remember it by. For our last meal in Florence, we went to a Middle Eastern kebab restaurant. We saw them a lot in Italy, and every time we walked by a restaurant it smelled great and looked delicious, but we always skipped them because they weren’t “authentic Italian”. We had a free lunch spot, so we went there and it was just as good as it smelled. So good, in fact, it rivaled some of the best Italian food that we had while we were there.

We had an early afternoon train trip to Rome, so we headed to the station a little early and caught the train southwest to Rome. Instead of the friendly couple we sat next to on the way to Florence we had a quiet, unfriendly couple that grudgingly got up to allow us to sit down. They spoke only a few words to each other during the three hour trip, so while Kuniko slept I concentrated on enjoying the scenery.

The countryside of Italy was beautiful. It reminded me a lot of Sonoma, but it wasn’t just grapes. There were fields of vegetables, sunflowers, and farm animals. There was a castle or a church spread around here and there, and it seemed like a really quiet pace out there on the farms. I think next time we visit Europe we’ll have to arrange to spend some time out in the countryside. This trip was just the highlights, but that means lots of tourists, and they can make your vacation a little less like a vacation and a little more like work.

We arrived in Roma Termini station – the station that the guidebooks warn you about for pickpockets and nefarious behavior. There was a weird vibe when we arrived, and lots of people tried to get us to use their taxi or join their free tour or arrange a hotel for us. We avoided all that and found a taxi line outside. The people in front of us were being badgered by some young guy trying to get something out of them, and another couple in front of us negotiated a fare of 20 euros with a taxi driver that had no taxi sign on his car.

We waited around for a legitimate looking taxi to arrive, and then got to our hotel in about 15 minutes. It was only about 10 euros, so not so bad, and no stress.

Our hotel was near the Vatican in a quiet upscale neighborhood. We went up to the hotel via one of those old fashioned open-air elevators, and checked into a nice, simple, no-frills room. The windows opened to a nice view of the street, and we unpacked and settled in. The clerk told us that it was a public holiday in Italy today, which I didn’t know about. It didn’t seem to affect us much. Everything was pretty quiet because it was summertime anyway – it didn’t seem any more quiet that day.

It was late in the afternoon, but too early for dinner, so we decided to walk over to the Vatican and check it out. It was about a 10 minute walk, and soon we arrived in a huge square in front of the Vatican cathedral. This was where the Pope holds audiences, and the sheer size of the square was impressive. We joined a short line to get into the cathedral. Once again they were checking the clothes to make sure no bare shoulders got into the cathedral.

The inside of the cathedral was beyond description. Something that big, something that beautiful – I’m not religious at all, but I was amazed that something like that could be made with human hands. It was nothing short of astonishing – we walked around inside with me trying to snap pictures to capture it all and Kuniko guiding me around to the most interesting-looking sites.

We left Vatican City after that. The Sistine Chapel was closed that day and the next day, so we would have to wait a few days to come back and see it. We walked the long way around to our hotel, and from there had to walk almost all the way back to the Vatican until we found a restaurant that was open. We ordered pizza and salad and pasta and beer. The beer really hit the spot – all the walking was starting to take its toll.

After dinner we walked around until we found a gelato place that was open. Like most places they didn’t have prices posted anywhere that we could see – you could either ask up front, or order and just pay whatever the cashier tells you. We decided to just order, so one person scooped them onto our cone, and then when we took them to the cashier, he charged us nine euros for them. That’s 4.50 euros each! That’s a six dollar ice cream!

We came on back to the hotel to rest up – the next day we planned to see the rest of Rome, so we’d have to be ready to run all over the place.

Honeymoon Trip Day 6 – Florence and Pisa

You can see pictures from this day here.

We woke up in the morning to sun streaming through the windows and a much less scary environment. The bed was easy to sleep in, and in the daylight everything looked airy and comfortable.

We headed out the door to get started with our sightseeing. First we caught a train out of town to Pisa – of leaning tower fame. The train ride was just over an hour, and we arrived quickly and headed out into the town. I was surprised with Pisa itself. It was a nice quiet town, and all the touristy tower things were far enough away that the town remained independent of them.

We got out to the tower and looked around the area. It was a beautiful clear day, and although it was pretty windy, we had a good time taking lots of pictures and looking at all the cheesy souvenirs. The leaning tower was pretty big, but not as tall as I had imagined. There were tons of people around, and lots of them were taking pictures with them holding up the tower by standing in the foreground. I declined to take a picture like that – it was more fun to take pictures of people taking pictures like that.

We had some pasta and cheese at a local restaurant for lunch. I ordered a big Moretti beer to drink with lunch, and Kuniko ordered a Bellini – a peach flavored alcoholic drink that was pretty good. After lunch, we headed back to Florence. There we did even more sightseeing – statues, fountains, plazas, squares, you name it. There are many famous museums in Florence, but I was really trying to avoid all but the major ones. I’m the kind of person that breezes through a museum without reading al the captions – I just want to see the artwork and move on.

For dinner I wanted to eat the local specialty, Bistecca Il Fiorentino. It’s a huge T-bone steak, and I love meat so it was a happy coincidence that it was Florence’s signature dish. We found a restaurant right next to the Duomo, and sat down for an early dinner. The waiter spoke English, which was nice. He was a little annoying and pushy, though. Maybe he was trying to be friendly, but he ended up sounding like a jerk. To make matters worse the CD that was playing would play about 45 seconds, then skip back 45 seconds and repeat itself.

To make up for the crappy service and repetitive music the steak was delicious. We had it with a Naples-style pizza with buffalo-milk mozzarella and Kuniko had ordered some pasta, too. Everything was awesome – we have yet to be disappointed with a meal here.

In the evening we took a few more pictures, then went out for some gelato and went back to our hotel. It wasn’t nearly as scary as it seemed the first night, and we tucked into bed early with our stomachs full.